Dom Lapalu Brouilly Vieilles Vignes 2009
With Jean-Claude Lapalu's wine you can detect the fists behind the fruit. This is one of the new crew of sternly-made rock steady cru Beaujolais: Grapes are hand-picked and sorted, loaded by conveyor to avoid damage, and given neither SO2 nor cultured yeasts during the fermentation. During 8-10 days maceration a wooden grill is used to enhance extraction. The wine stays at least a half year on its fine lees gaining power and complexity. And yet the Brouillys are neither heavy nor clumsy and one could easily imagine them ageing ten to fifteen years. The old vines were old when Jean-Claude's grandfather began farming them in 1940. Is this where the schist of Côte de Brouilly touches the signature granite of Brouilly? It seems almost to inhabit a hypothetical halfway house between Beaujolais and Priorat! The old vines Brouilly is the combination of two cuvées, one made by carbonic maceration, the other a traditional vinification with destemmed grapes, (Jean-Claude only uses indigenous yeasts and doesn't use any sulphur during vinification, there is only some added at the bottling and then only in very small quantities: 2gr/ hl). The cuvaison lasts for10 to 20 days. The two cuvées are then assembled after their malolactic fermentation and spend the winter in stainless steel tanks. The dark red fruits on the nose and palate can't disguise a probing minerality; if ever granite was translated into liquid this is the case.
Gamey-meaty, a bit metallic, hints of nail polish, some fruit, slightly watery in the mid-palate, most elements at roughly same intensity, balanced, not too intense. Dryish. Body light to medium, acid medium. Mostly or 100% gamay.