Winery of the Year 2013

Rewarding consumers with consistent quality and value



Barolo Monvigliero 
 
2009 - This has a hugely aromatic nose that explodes with savory, tapenade, thyme, light geranium notes, followed by a spicy truffle precursor and rich, dark fruit. This is fairly ripe, packed with soft abundant tannins and integrated acidity, this will be ready quite early. The fruit here freshens up on the backend showing a little ripe strawberry, strawberry seeds, building with great intensity and clarity on the backend and showing great brilliance on the finish. 93pts
 
2008 - Very herbal on the nose with tapenade aromas that are more thyme-driven than olive at the moment, all accented by a dusting of cinnamon and really lovely strawberry fruit. This could be called lush if it wasn’t so nervy, with juicy acidity and super fine tannins supporting wonderfully crisp strawberry fruit. Topped with a hint of truffle, some spice notes and a touch of tropical fruit. It’s wonderfully transparent in the mouth, firming up with a bit of air and offering great lift on the back end and the long, pure finish. 93pts 
 
2006 - The nose here is very complex with rich notes of olive tapenade, thyme, dried meat, ginseng, dried herbs, rosehips, rose petals and a touch of leather. On entry this is light and bright with huge inner-mouth perfumes. It’s very finely balanced with an elegant, suave feeling. The fruit has an edge of liquory richness and hints of medicinal herbs adding complexity but the rush of wild berry fruit on the mid-palate extends right through the long finish with big acids helping to extend the fruity finish. Really gorgeous wine. 93pts
 
2005 - Leathery and slightly bretty on the nose with a deep gamy element that contrasts against the sweet dark fruits of the nose Notes of olive brine, mortadella and carnations emerge from the glass with air. Soft and suave in the mouth with a rich core of spiced fruit supported by great acids that keep this taut and tense. Great camphor tinged cherry fruit in the mouth conceals a bed of ripe tannins. A very well balanced 2005. 93pts 
 
2004 - Olives and spicy green middle eastern tones immediately greated the nose with this wine and were joined by notes of hung game, moist tobacco and sweet, candied root, angelica root tones after several hours of air. This was initially quite bitter and beef bloody with lots of candied raspberry fruit tones that gradually added some vegetal, cucumber like notes and a very big flourish of fresh green herbs that set up the palate for this green/red fruit tension that was very intriguing and lead to a crisp clean finish with some subtle pignoli nut bitterness. After several hours air the big herbal element remained as did a very quinine like medicinal tone that framed the red fruits. The mouthfeel remained both zesty and polished and I appreciated the great complexity and sneaky finish but this is a very distinctive Barolo, something I applaud. 91pts 
 
2000 - Crazy! What a fine nose with confiture fruits, huge herbs, sweet and almost candied/dried fruit tone dates and dried cherry but still moist and fresh. Slight tobacco, more black olive brine than olives, leather, sweet licorice, intense and complex and gaining a purity to the block olive notes with each passing moment. A bit loose at first, perhaps too hot for Monvigliero though this remains elegant and caressing with fine fruit and a pitched mineral tone that makes it seem fresher than perhaps it is. The backdrop to the fruit is very licorice and very tannic but the tannins are gentle, quite earthy and slightly leathery. The fruit has a prune plum quality that is very ripe but still fresh. This is deceptively easy to drink with a lovely cocoa note on the really fresh finish My only complaint is that this could use a bit more acid but none-the-less this is an unsung hero of Barolo. This should be an icon! It is such an individual expression of Barolo yet is so completely and thoroughly Barolo. Every Barolo love needs to try these wines. Superb! 95pts 
 
1995 - Intense notes of incense and candlewax immediately emerge from the glass joined by dark, smoky, slightly jammy fruits with complicating notes of fish sauce, underbrush, tapenade, thyme and olive oil. In the mouth he tannins are delicate and light if abundant giving the wine a velvety texture. The rosehip and wild cherry fruit is framed by vitamin like mineral notes and a wonderful inner mouth perfume of roses and tapenade. Still youthful this is emerging from its shell and has a very promising future. 93pts. 
 
1989 - This smelled quite bloody at first, down right like an abattoir but with incredibly sweet spearmint, sassafras and sautéed mushroom notes that were deeply embedded in the gamy, slightly roasted, meat core of dark berry and dried fig fruit. On the palate this had a brilliant texture with bright acids balanced by a blanket of superb, soft tannins. The dark fruit presented itself with great precision possessing a lovely sweetness matched by the complex, layered notes of dried herbs, earth, tobacco and salted capers that drove through the long, powerful finish. 2009-2030 93pts 


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Comments

  • Snooth User: outthere
    Hand of Snooth Voice of Snooth
    324443 3,826

    Wow! Great write-up GDP. Though I would expect nothing less from you when it comes to Barolo. Well done.

    Oct 30, 2013 at 10:14 AM


  • Snooth User: Gregory Dal Piaz
    Hand of Snooth Voice of Snooth
    89065 204,513

    Thanks OT! Easy to do when you write about something you're passionate about.

    Oct 30, 2013 at 11:26 AM


  • Snooth User: zinfandel1
    Hand of Snooth
    154660 994

    Love the article. More important is that a few of your selections are my favorites.

    Oct 30, 2013 at 3:07 PM


  • Snooth User: Zuiko
    Hand of Snooth
    540750 756

    I expected something esoteric and you delivered. Great article. My personal pick- Morris Wines of Victoria, Australia. Great fortified wines, especially their Tawnies. Tied for second place- J. Koegler and Karl Johann Molitor of the Rheingau. Also in the running- Frank Schiffmann's wines (Schiffmann-Junk) Brauneberg, Mosel.

    Oct 30, 2013 at 7:42 PM


  • Snooth User: Gregory Dal Piaz
    Hand of Snooth Voice of Snooth
    89065 204,513

    Thanks Zinfandel! great wines that everyone can and should try!

    Thanks Zuiko. I see a pattern in your choices!

    Oct 31, 2013 at 9:18 AM


  • Snooth User: pjc1414
    200254 1

    question : when did you taste these wines? all in same time period this year? please pardon my fear of assuming something, that is probably obvious to others. ( i am assuming all wine notes were from tasting in 2013. I am most curious about the older Barbera and Dolcetto. thanks

    Nov 01, 2013 at 12:20 PM


  • Snooth User: JonDerry
    Hand of Snooth
    680446 3,021

    Great stuff GdP...thanks for turning me on to these and other great values in Piedmont. Can't wait for the 10's!

    Nov 01, 2013 at 4:04 PM


  • Snooth User: Raphael Au
    1393710 4

    Thanks for introducing me to Burlotto's wines. I especially love the Barolo Monvigliero. It was your earlier article about the top 12 barolos that influenced me to stay at Burlotto's Agriturismo Locanda dell'Orso Bevitore.

    I am currently building my collection from 2006 to 2009 back home in Toronto!

    Also, it was very nice to meet you (if you remember me and my friend, we met at BArtolo Mascarello in May, then met again at Roberto Voerzio). Cheers.

    Nov 01, 2013 at 11:46 PM


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