Taking a last look at 2006 Zinfandel

As the shelves see their first 2008 Zinfandels, and are quickly filling with many 2007’s, I thought it was time to take another look at 2006, a vintage with a reputation, not all of it good.

2006 was a difficult vintage in much of Northern California that saw a cool and damp spring make rot an issue early in the season. The  July heat wave that followed further stressed the vines, yet cooler temperatures returned for the end of the season, accompanied by more rains and more rot. It was a vintage that required considerable work in the vineyards, but also offered those who were diligent and patient good weather during harvest, and a small crop of healthy grapes.

Alexander Valley Vineyards

One of three great Zinfandels from this pioneering producer. I'll be reviewing the rest tomorrow so check back for information on Sin Zin and Temptation.

2006 Alexander Valley Vineyards Redemption Dry Creek Valley 14.5%

Priced from $16.00

Black raspberry jam on dry toast greets the nose, tight with black fruit and spice notes slowly unfurling with a touch of apricot jam and a nice brambly top note.  There’s a little vanilla and spice box but it’s well integrated and in balance.

Paso Robles Biker

Four Vines consistenly produces some big, brawny wines, yet they always behave at the table, the Biker is no exception.

2006 Four Vines Biker Paso Robles 15%

Priced from $19.57

This is pretty big in the mouth with a lot of power, and big, furry tannins,  yet it retains freshening acidity. There are masses of dark, slightly confected fruit with touches of molasses, mocha and spice adding focus and give the wine a bit of form.

Wine Guerrilla

A relatively new producer specializing in Sonoma County Zinfandel. Read more about their great line up of 2007's Zinfandels next week.

2006 Wine Guerrilla Two Vineyards Dry Creek Valley 14.6%

Priced from $19.99

Red fruit, tar and licorice on the nose, with an underlying sweet raspberry tone and nice earthy spiciness all in balance.  Soft tannins and good acidity in a relatively medium weight frame help support nice wild raspberry and wild cherry fruit.

While rain was an issue in 2006, many of the best Zinfandel sites are, fortunately, located on hillsides. These slope side sites not only allow for better drainage, but also have the airflow required to help rid the vines of unwanted moisture, a real concern with a tight cluster grape such as Zinfandel.

The cool temperatures towards the end of the growing season slowed down the ripening of the grape clusters. This gave 2006 Zinfandel the hang time that is so crucial for even ripening in a variety famous for producing bunches with green berries and raisins interspersed among the ripe berries. 

The cool weather and long hang time yielded a striking set of wines in 2006. Zinfandel with slightly higher acid and lower alcohol than one typically sees, yet with perfectly ripe grapes. This tends to be a recipe for greatness, and while the sample set we’ve tasted is relatively small, the wines have been uniformly richly flavored, ripe and, contrary to popular sentiment, poised to improve over the mid-term.  

1994 was a vintage that produced a similar set of wines. Its long, cool season produced this style of balanced wine that may have lacked the size that people had come to expect from Zinfandel, yet were so perfectly balanced that they have stood the test of time. While I am on my last few bottles of 1994 Zinfandel, each bottle I open continues to provide great drinking. I look forward to trying some of these 2006’s in another 10 years. I bet they’ll be just as good.

Sausal Alexander Valley Family Zinfandel 2006

50 Year old vines - A tight and precise slightly smoky roasted blackberry tone greets the nose, it’s candied in a way but still has a clarity and freshness to it that is appealing. It’s a little exotic with a nice balsamic note and a touch of roasted/medicinal herb quality that adds nice tension to the nose. Soft in the mouth with enough tannin to give the fruit volume but still allowing the wine to be supple. Nice juicy acids support rather fresh raspberry fruit with that same herbal/medicinal character contributing a bit of edginess to the wine and leading to a nice, slightly tarry and earthy finish. 89pts

Alexander Valley Temptation Zin 2006

Intensely aromatic and popping with black pepper tinged slightly leathery and smoky wild cherry fruit. There’s even a touch of mushroom and forest floor earthiness lurking in the background on the nose. Soft and mouth filling though not terribly weighty with a really gentle, supple character making this very easy drinking. There’s plenty of sweet wild cherry fruit here and a touch of sautéed herbs adding a touch of complexity. 89pts

Lake Sonoma Winery Zinfandel Saini Farms Old Vine 2006

Restrained and tight with a core of meaty, soy tinged jerky, black pepper and toasty oak aromas with a touch of pine resin embedded in a subtle roast black cherry fruitiness. Rather restrained in the mouth as well with a bit of drying, woody tannin poking out. There is a nice core of cherry fruit here with spice note that lean towards licorice and cedar with a streak of vanilla that runs through the wine and leads to a bit of a pomegranate and wild cherry tone on the brief finish. 86pts

To see all the 2006 Zinfandels I've reviewed this year click here. Stay tuned for a focus on the 2007 Wine Guerrilla line up that will be sent out tomorrow.