Visits in Piedmont Part 2

Additional Producer Profiles for Wines Tasted this Past May




Giacomo Conterno

Who produces the single finest wine of Barolo? You might get quite a few different answers tot his question but if you take a considered look that includes a historical perspective as well as the current release wines you would be hard pressed not to select Giacomo Conterno's Monfortino. For me there is no doubt and over the years I have put more Giacomo Conterno wines in my cellar than any other producer's. Having said that I buy very little today, not because the wines aren't still among the very best, in the world that is, but rather because the wines are receiving the recognition that they deserve and prices have risen accordingly. In absolute terms though these wines remain fairly priced, they are gorgeous wines, traditional yet cleaner and more precise than they have been in the past. The mMnfortino though is a wine for young people, as it takes two to three decades in the cellar in order to really hit its sweet spot. These are simply amazing wines and if you can't afford them you should make friends with someone who can. They are simply not to be missed.


2009 Giacomo Conterno Barolo Cascina Francia - Serralunga

A bit of wild mint and diesel shows up early on the nose along with some macerated huckleberry fruit. In the mouth this is tight, powerful and smooth, with acidity that is perhaps a touch low. Building slowly on the palate, this shows lots of chewy fruit skin tannins in a very young and unformed stage of its evolution. There’s real lightness and elegance here with limestone on the backend that really grows on the finish. The elegance and purity of fruit is attractive here but this does seem a bit soft and reticent today. Everything is in its place and the acidity does add some lift on the backend so I can’t imagine this not improving, still it seems like it will be fairly obvious. 92pts

2010 Giacomo Conterno Barolo Cascina Francia - Serralunga


Barrel sample - Incredible nose powerful and already complex, really like potpourri on the nose along with the essence of Nebbiolo black cherry fruit. This is mouth filling if transparent, with, awesome acidity, ripe tannins that are totally refined, really perfect ripeness, and fine stony fruit in the mouth and through the exceptionally long finish. This is going to make people cry. Best ever? 96-98pts

Elegance of 1985 with the power of 1989

2010 Giacomo Conterno Barolo Cerretta – Serralunga

Two hectares, 6000 bottles

Thinking of bottling in magnum single bottle case

Barrel sample - Powerful on the nose in a  dark, tarry, stepped tea kind of way with aromas that are a little nutty and slightly vegetal with a touch of marmite, herbal/floral inky violets undertone. Powerful and smooth with bigger sweeter fruit than the Cascina Frnancia supported by super ripe tannins and great acidity. The succulent fruit is a little chewy and a touch rustic on the finish with real persistence to the fruit. The alcohol shows a touch on the finish. 93-95pts

2006 Giacomo Conterno Barolo Riserva Monfortino - Serralunga


A saturation of wild cherry, chamomile, slightly spicy heather and pink peppercorn aromas fill the nose. This is just so intensely fruity, with smoky, mineral and menthol notes adding complexity. Chewy with powerful acidity and packed with ripe tannins, this is powerful, deep  and packed with wild berry fruit, steeped tea, and dried herbs flavors. The mineral backbone here is phenomenal, and while this is very tannic, it is also very focused and tense with a long finish that, this keeps hammering away on the palate. Imagine smashing cherries on limestone with an old wooden hammer. Now imagine loving that. 96pts


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Comments

  • Probably you tasted Barbera 2010 Conterno Cascina Francia, because isn't possible Barolo 2010 is not in commerce until at list 2015
    Fusco

    Aug 18, 2013 at 2:57 PM


  • Snooth User: Gregory Dal Piaz
    Hand of Snooth Voice of Snooth
    89065 204,541

    No, it was the 2010 Barolo from botte, not from bottle.

    Aug 18, 2013 at 4:12 PM


  • Snooth User: Raphael Au
    1393710 4

    As always, I enjoy reading your articles on Barolo. While in Piemonte in May, I bought 6 bottles of Giuseppe Rinaldi Barolo Brunate Le Coste 2009. Amazing wine at a very reasonable 44 euros each ($130 in the US before taxes?!?!?)

    cheers

    Nov 02, 2013 at 12:05 AM


  • Snooth User: Gregory Dal Piaz
    Hand of Snooth Voice of Snooth
    89065 204,541

    Thank you for your kind words. Oh boy that is a terrific buy. Just last night I enjoyed a lie-up of G Rinaldi that spanned 1956-2001. You'll have to be patient but you're in for a treat when the wine finally matures.

    Nov 02, 2013 at 1:33 PM


  • Snooth User: Raphael Au
    1393710 4

    I hope you are going to write about the Rinaldi experience (i'm so friggin jealous!!). What was the colour like, particularly on the earlier years?

    Nov 02, 2013 at 11:10 PM


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