Visits in Piedmont Part 2

Additional Producer Profiles for Wines Tasted this Past May




Aldo Conterno

The wines of Aldo Conterno have gone through changes over the years, being among the top wines in the late 1980s before losing ground to other producers as the family went through a period of transition and change. Today the wines produced here are real standouts for the region. They are among the frankly fruitiest Barolos produced, and yet they retain the structure and feel of a more traditional wine. They are proving to be hugely successful with consumers, and while they are not exactly the style of Barolo I prefer, one can hardly argue with the hedonistic pleasure these wines provide. Given the changing of styles here it's hard to get a read on how these wines will age, but I would guess that for the most part they will be medium term as opposed to long term wines, best consumed within their first 20 years or with all that fruit, though I would be happy to be proven wrong.



“I'm tired of people betting on Barolo, Barolo is not a gamble, I feel that our Barolo should be expressing more primary fruit.” Giacomo Conterno

2009 Barolo Bussia - Monforte


26 months in Slavonian botte

Plots outside of the crus yet within Bussia

Wow wild cherry, menthol, rose petal, a touch of exotic fruit, pomegranate maybe with a hint of India ink all greet the nose with power and clarity.  In the mouth this is pretty easy going with lots of pretty fresh yet simple if juicy, red fruits. There’s a nice tannic finish here with tons of licorice flavors and this is awfully well behaved, holding its alcohol very well at 15.3%. This is a bit Barolo-lite in a way, but this is very true to type and enjoyable, tart cherry, raspberry and plum notes with hints of rosehips and dried citrus rinds adding some detail to the inner mouth perfumes. This is a very fruity Barolo. 89pts

2009  Aldo Conterno Barolo Colonnello - Monforte

5400 bottles

More la morra style soil, more florl, more magnesium and manganese in the soil, others more clay in the soil so earthier, 360 meters, cicada is 405, romirascois 410

6 weeks skin contact, 26 months in botte

Rather perfumed and frankly fruity on the nose with a touch of carob and anise seed accenting rose petal flecked sour cherry and pomegranate fruit,all gaining a hint of white pepper and dusty white soil tones with air. Very smooth in the mouth with good acids and ripe tannins creating a wine that is both a bit dense and relaxed in the mouth with a fine core of wild red berry fruit, more lingonberry than cherry with leather, tree bark, soil and mineral notes all adding details. This does lack some energy in the mouth which may be a result of the vintage but this is rich and a little chewy on the back end, followed by a moderately long finish that shows a hint of mushroom and well framed, slightly candied raspberry fruit. 91pts

2009 Aldo Conterno Barolo Cicala - Monforte

3.2 hectares, the steepest portion of the vineyard, 5800 bottles

Six weeks of skin contact, 29 months wood

Deep and rich on the nose with intense fruit, mineral and floral aromas that are a little wild, a little sauvage with salumi and cocoa accents, topped by slightly medicinal and minty accents.  Cool and compact on the palate, this has both richness and edginess with a lovey hint of sweetness to the wild cherry fruit on the palate. Here are some savory notes here, something minty/licorice and aromatic in the mouth. The tannins here are more angular than with the previous wines, and while this might be a little dense and weighty in the mouth this is a classy, intense, powerful and fruit driven wine. 92pts

2009 Aldo Conterno Barolo Romirasco - Monforte

3.8 hectares, 4900 bottles

31 months in wood

Super floral on the nose with intense perfumes of Middle Eastern spices, green spices, and turmeric. Smooth, polished and elegant on entry this exhibits lots of depth on the palate with good clarity even if this is a little chewy. The wild cherry fruit on the palate is intense without being frooty, carrying with it a lovely astringent edge. The fruit here definitely has wild candy notes with an innate sweetness one the palate, but it is also quite seamless with tannins that float away on the finish. This shows more heat than the previous two wines, though it also finishes with more savory and mineral accents to the small astringent red fruits that show fine persistence, though in the end one does find a little bubble gum fruitiness. People are going to love this. It’s structured and fruity! 93pts

2005 Aldo Conterno Barolo Granbussia - Monforte


Used to be five week skin contact, malo during assembly of the crus, now starting with 2005 two months skin contact and co-fermented crus

Tight, muscular and angular on the  mineral laced nose that shows excellent perfumes of rosehips, orange rind,  dried flowers with a hint of iron and spice. This is gorgeous with excellent integration in the mouth. Just lovely with wide open fruit that shows a lightly burnished edge, with a light sweetness to the fruit but this is layered with savory, spiced, and dried herbs and floral elements. There’s a reserved sense of power to this wine with lovely follow through to the dusty, wild raspberry fruit on the finish. This is elegant and refined, with excellent complexity and length. 94pts


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Comments

  • Probably you tasted Barbera 2010 Conterno Cascina Francia, because isn't possible Barolo 2010 is not in commerce until at list 2015
    Fusco

    Aug 18, 2013 at 2:57 PM


  • Snooth User: Gregory Dal Piaz
    Hand of Snooth Voice of Snooth
    89065 205,888

    No, it was the 2010 Barolo from botte, not from bottle.

    Aug 18, 2013 at 4:12 PM


  • Snooth User: Raphael Au
    1393710 4

    As always, I enjoy reading your articles on Barolo. While in Piemonte in May, I bought 6 bottles of Giuseppe Rinaldi Barolo Brunate Le Coste 2009. Amazing wine at a very reasonable 44 euros each ($130 in the US before taxes?!?!?)

    cheers

    Nov 02, 2013 at 12:05 AM


  • Snooth User: Gregory Dal Piaz
    Hand of Snooth Voice of Snooth
    89065 205,888

    Thank you for your kind words. Oh boy that is a terrific buy. Just last night I enjoyed a lie-up of G Rinaldi that spanned 1956-2001. You'll have to be patient but you're in for a treat when the wine finally matures.

    Nov 02, 2013 at 1:33 PM


  • Snooth User: Raphael Au
    1393710 4

    I hope you are going to write about the Rinaldi experience (i'm so friggin jealous!!). What was the colour like, particularly on the earlier years?

    Nov 02, 2013 at 11:10 PM


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