Visits in Piedmont Part 2

Additional Producer Profiles for Wines Tasted this Past May




Voerzio

Voerzio is among the most modern of producers, stressing low yields in the vineyard, and a modern style of winemaking that relies on tonneaux and barrique in the cellar. I have had a few Voerzio wines that I have enjoyed over the years, though they tend to not loose their oak but rather retain the powerfully concentrated fruit for quite some time.  Today we were "lucky" to try the full line-up, though we were lead to believe these bottles were open only a day early, they all showed signs of oxidation that could lead to only two conclusions. Either these bottles had been opened for much longer, three or four days feels about right, or else these wine just will not age that well. Since I can't know for sure I will leave the conclusion up to you. These are divisive wines, powerful, packed and chewy but for the style they are not unsuccessful, tending to be richly packed with fruit and alcohol with rather soft, mature tannins.


2009 Roberto Voerzio Barolo Cerequio - La Morra


40 yo

Opened twenty hours

A nice lightly jammy wild cherry note spread over a cedar shingle that has that dry wood note of old grey wood greets the nose. This shows nice liquory red fruit, a little red curranty, in a smooth style with good clarity on the palate, nice acid cut and fine grained tannins that build on the palate.  Fairly crisp, spicy strawberry fruit has to compete with lots of wood tannins on the finish, which is a bit short and fairly alcoholic, if filled with red fruits. 87pts

2009 Roberto Voerzio Barolo la Serra - La Morra

20 Year old vines, high density plantings

Nice notes of macerated flowers greets the nose along with wood spice, toasty oak, and some balsamic top notes.  Nicely rich and powerful on entry with good clarity on the palate and lots of ripe fruit supported by nice ripe tannins lending this a broad and yet transparent feel on the palate. This shows a little oxidation on the backend with a little rusty edge and finishes fairly short, though this shows some potential.  A bit chunky and fruity. 88pts

2008 Roberto Voerzio Barolo Rocche dell'Annunziata Toriglione - La Morra


Filled with aromas of dark ripe fruit that have a bit of a sweet wild cherry coulis aspect to them are topped with meaty, balsamic, and dried beef perfumes. This is tight and slightly austere, very 2008 in character with nice acids and structural integration, though a little vegetable bouillon appears on the midpalate. This is integrating the wood fairly well, considering the powerful style here and the finish shows great length and good complexity. 91pts

2008 Roberto Voerzio Barolo Brunate - La Morra


Older vines, low density plantings

Powerful aromas of beef blood, cinnamon, nutmeg, a touch of rust, dark fruit, and macerated medicinal herbs greet the nose. This is texturally packed on the palate, rich and yet with a touch of austerity. Nicely rounded tannins supported flavors that show flashes of mint and something vegetal along with a big follow through of root beer on the finish. This shows just a touch of alcohol and dry, chewy tannins on the moderately long finish. There’s a lot going on here but this is awfully dense today.  90pts

2003 Roberto Voerzio Barolo Fossati - Case Nere- La Morra

100% barrique, 20% new

Lots of ripeness on the nose, stewy and still oaky. This is fairly fresh on the palate considering the vintage, though it still shows some wood along with flavors of rich red fruits. This is a powerful wine with a rustic finish that shows a green edge to the tannins here.  You can sense that this might be an elegant wine in another vintage, even here it has rather succulent acidity that help to support the cola backend and rather liquory dense, chewy finish. 88pts


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Comments

  • Probably you tasted Barbera 2010 Conterno Cascina Francia, because isn't possible Barolo 2010 is not in commerce until at list 2015
    Fusco

    Aug 18, 2013 at 2:57 PM


  • Snooth User: Gregory Dal Piaz
    Hand of Snooth Voice of Snooth
    89065 198,040

    No, it was the 2010 Barolo from botte, not from bottle.

    Aug 18, 2013 at 4:12 PM


  • Snooth User: Raphael Au
    1393710 4

    As always, I enjoy reading your articles on Barolo. While in Piemonte in May, I bought 6 bottles of Giuseppe Rinaldi Barolo Brunate Le Coste 2009. Amazing wine at a very reasonable 44 euros each ($130 in the US before taxes?!?!?)

    cheers

    Nov 02, 2013 at 12:05 AM


  • Snooth User: Gregory Dal Piaz
    Hand of Snooth Voice of Snooth
    89065 198,040

    Thank you for your kind words. Oh boy that is a terrific buy. Just last night I enjoyed a lie-up of G Rinaldi that spanned 1956-2001. You'll have to be patient but you're in for a treat when the wine finally matures.

    Nov 02, 2013 at 1:33 PM


  • Snooth User: Raphael Au
    1393710 4

    I hope you are going to write about the Rinaldi experience (i'm so friggin jealous!!). What was the colour like, particularly on the earlier years?

    Nov 02, 2013 at 11:10 PM


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