Another arch traditionalist, who in this case produces a single Barolo blended from four vineyards. This is the epitome of elegance in Barolo, with a deceptive early stage when the wine can seem to light and easy followed by a long, slow growth curve as the wines add weight, power, depth and complexity. These wines have been getting better and better with the passage of time and continue to help set the benchmark for what Barolo can and should be. I hope these wines remains with us forever as they are a touchstone for the region.
2009 Bartolo Mascarello Barolo
Intense raspberry fruit, ripe with woodsy edges and mineral, tea, and tobacco highlights topped with a touch of red rose petals all greet the nose. Wide open, and a bit soft on entry then full of intriguing rosehip and raspberry fruit with a little apple skins note and hints of sandalwood on the palate. The tannins here are pretty ripe, but certainly prominent right through the slightly austere finish which shows some alcohol that is just barely perceptible. This has height and perfume in the mouth that is unusual for the vintage, with a fresh and traditional feel. 93pts