Traditional vs. modern winemaking in Langhe has been an ongoing debate for quite some time. One of the most traditional winemakers in Langhe is Beppe Rinaldi in Barolo. His mythic status had me anxious to go and visit.

An 11:00 a.m. Saturday visit was booked with a very straightforward woman on the phone. As always, we were stressing and anxiously screeching around the bends of the windy roads ... late again. We tried to call, but of course they weren't picking up their phone. Finally a scruffy voice answered when we were only about 10 minutes away.  I got my hopes up that this was actually Beppe but soon I got disappointed when I heard him saying that he was actually leaving to go to Alba that very moment. I could tell he was funny, sarcastic and down to earth by the way he told us he had to go take care of the usual bureaucratic "schifezze" (shit). What a letdown. He knew nothing of our visit.

We finally found this legendary family winery right past the town center. Regardless of the response on the phone, we drove in to see if we could catch him. Everything seemed dead but finally after 5 minutes, a grey haired man with a mustache dressed in work clothes (not a suit!), sticks his head out the door and says he has to go and can't even meet up in the afternoon. Sad.

Just as I started sinking into a deep depression, an SUV drove into the driveway. It was Marta, the daughter, acting as if everything was under control. She rolled in ready to lead us around and we were all set. I was satisfied because I had heard she would be the one to successfully carry on this 19th century winery.