I am fortunate to have spent more than my fair share of time tasting and talking with Luca Currado. Luca, as you may know, is the winemaker of Piedmont’s Vietti winery. This is a family affair: Luca’s mother, Luciana, is the Vietti in the family, having married Alfredo Currado in 1952.

I’m fortunate to have met Alfredo and shared a glass with him before his passing, and to have been welcomed by the gracious Luciana. So when Luca claims, with a half-smile, that his mother married because hiring a winemaker was just so expensive, you only have to pause for a second before laughing along with him.

The history of Vietti and what the Currados have accomplished is rather well-known. Achievements range from being at the forefront of establishing the cru system, to flirtations with the modernist style (that thankfully were only flirtations, though they do continue to this day to working tirelessly to improve the recognition of the oft ignored ‘other grapes’ of Piedmont). One taste of Vietti’s Arneis, which admittedly has moved consistently towards a leaner, more mineral style, or the amazing Barbera Scarrone Vigna Vecchia and you’ll begin to understand.