Unsung Heros - Italian Whites
Scratching the surface of all that Italy has to offer
The land of Barolo and Barbaresco also produces white wine, mostly because the people who live here can’t drink their structured reds 365 days a year! While white wine is definitely enjoying a renaissance of sorts, here Nebbiolo is the villain to a minor extent, there is a long history of white wine being produced in the region .
Today you can find all sorts of white grapes planted from the indigenous Arneis and Cortese, to Chardonnay, Riesling and somewhat surprisingly Sauvignon Blanc, which seems to be quite popular with a broad range of producers. Fortunately for us there is also Nascetta, though the spelling seems yet to be agreed upon. Hailing from the commune of Novello and on the edge of extinction not too long ago, Nascetta is poised for a come back and seems well equipped to become Piedmont’s most interesting white variety!
Pears and apricot greet the nose in a fruity but cool style with some spicy pollen accents. On entry this is dry, clean and firm with a touch of attractive astringency to the very clear white stone fruit flavors. There’s a nice mineral note contrasting the subtly sweet fruit on the rather long, bitter apple skin flavored finish. 87pts
Cashews, spice and vanilla blossom from the glass with a hint of butter accenting apple fruit. Early in the palate there’s a touch of obvious wood sweetness and a little tannin that adds some textural complexity to the rich lemon curd flavors on the palate. Finishing with good length and really fine acidity, this is actually rather mineral driven and quite attractive. 89pts
Bitter orange and rosemary aromas pop on the nose followed by complex notes of green tea with some beeswax, a very aromatic floral quality and a hint of cotton bandage. Some full roundness early on the palate leads to a mid palate that shows of a slightly waxy texture with good depth and an early mineral note. In the glass this turns much more mineral and a touch bitter on the back end with good length to the apricot skin laced finish that ends on a green plum note and lingering mouth watering acidity. 90pts
An old reference to Riesling locally used, means roots in the stone, a blend of Alsatian clones in Barolo and German clones in sinio 8 months in SS
Parcel in Barolo not adapted to Nebbiolo, very sandy soil, well suited for Riesling,
A pre-release sample.
Mineral and fairly grapy on the nose with creamy, yeasty, lime rind ariomas. This is rather tight on the entry showing nice fruit in a bit of a compact style though air does reveal layers of white flowers lemon and a shade of apricot in the mouth. The long finish shows a touch of white peach along with a bit of a starchy quality before ending on a minor stony note. 88pts
A bit waxy on the nose and I definitely see some Alsatian character here under the deep minty, herbal, nettle top note. With nice early acidity offering considerable cut to the palate this offers up very clear fruit, though it does lack the complexity of the 2012, yet shows more depth and richness. There’s more assertive minerality on the finish and with air this becomes rather floral and white peach driven. 88pts
Light and pungent on the nose with a simple blend of mineral, almond and floral aromas that have balsamic overtones. This is rather light bodied, simple and fresh early on the palate, but it does add some weight and gentle complexity in the mouth with some air. Flavors hinting at kiwi and grape add a touch of detail here and pick up some refreshing citrus notes on the backend and through the clear, simple finish. A bit simple but well made and refreshing. 86pts