Unsung Heros - Italian Whites
Scratching the surface of all that Italy has to offer
We might as well begin with Soave. How did Soave become such a large scale wine? Because among the sea of ordinary there are quite a few exceptional producers and there always have been. Why can’t we find very good Soave? Because we don’t bother looking for it. At it’s best Soave provides the depth and complexity of a wine of twice or thrice the price. Deeply influenced by both the volcanic soils they are grown in and the grapes used to make each wine, Garganega is the star here, superlative Soave is rich yet elegant, capable of ageing for a decade while offering up a solid core of fruit that can range from peachy and obvious to more subtle expressions laced with contrasting bitter notes and supported by strong minerality. It's a wine that is both very food freindly yet well suited to enjoying on its own.
Smokey and bright on the nose with a soft waxy edge to the rich and almost nutty yellow fruits that are tipped with just a hint of pollen. Silky and supple in the mouth but at the same time bright and tense with delicate heirloom apple and apricot flavors over a fine base of almost salty soil tones. There’s a big pop of fruit on the backend followed by a very light if modestly aromatic finish and salty, mineral driven finish.. Young, tense and quite precise. 88pts
Tight on the nose with subtle flinty base notes and a gentle blend of balsamic herb, floral and cidery fruit aromas. Very smooth and polished in the mouth with fine balance between the supple acids and bitter almond and cider apple flavors that are layered over an assertive mineral base that shows great persistence on the long, almost salty finish. This is both more subtle and more elegant that Inama’s Classico bottling, though it may find a more modest audience because of it, but there is no doubt that this is a more interesting and complex with wonderful follow through on the very long finish. 91pts