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Syrah has long been the black sheep of the California wine family, but that hasn’t prevented some producers from continuing to focus on it. One of the reasons that domestic Syrah has had some problems gaining traction with consumers may be the wide range of styles it can be produced in. The trick is to stop looking for a California style, and go find the producers you like. For Syrah there are very few that can touch Edmunds St. John, whose Syrah is decidedly Old World in style, and more savory than opulent. Complex and balanced, this wine drinks well young, yet ages remarkably well.

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