Thinking Pink: The Intricacies of Making Rosé

 


It’s summer. The weather is warm and if you are like me, your thoughts are turning to more white wines rather than the hearty reds of winter. There is one style which is making a statement this season however and that is Rosé. It’s a beautiful mix of the lightness of a white wine with a bit of classy structure hinting of its origins as red wine grapes. In Provence, one of the world’s foremost Rosé producing regions, exports to the US have risen for 12 straight years with rapid growth in 2015 according to the Wines of Provence organization. The sales data from Nielsen also confirms that rose sales have risen not only in volume by over 50% but value as well over 60% for imported Roses. However, the love of Rose is not just a US phenomenon. Approximately 9% of all wine sold in the UK are rosé wines as well, surprisingly over half of which originate from the US! According to the Drinks Business, over the past 12 years global rosé consumption has increased 20%!
Much of this increase arises from rosé’s easy to drink style and ability to so seamlessly pair with foods which require more structure than whites but a lighter body than a red would provide. It also stems from the “pink is for women” stigma finally being shed as dry rosés are being seen as serious wines beyond the sweeter blush styles popular in the 1980s and 90s. So how does Rosé manage to bridge the worlds between white and red so successfully? The answer lies in several different winemaking techniques, each with their own result which can be used independently or together to achieve a desired style of Rosé. There are three main ways to make rosé; Skin Contact and Pressing, Saignée, and Blending.  
 
Skin Contact and Pressing
 
This method is unique because the sole purpose of this method is to make rosé. Unlike Saignée which has some side benefits, this method is employed when a winemaker wants to completely control the amount of structure and color in the rosé to the fullest. It starts by selecting the desired grape variety. In the south of France, such as Tavel this would be Cinsaut or Grenache. In Spain, it would be Garnacha perhaps with some Tempranillo. In the Loire, Cabernet Franc or Pinot Noir may be employed while in the New World, the entire world of reds are open for experimentation. The next step would be to decide how much color and structure to extract from the skins once the fruit is crushed. Often, this is done right in the press with the skins remaining in contact with the juice from 4 hours to as much as 48. Winemakers then sample the juice to determine the color extraction and texture of the tannins before making a pressing decision. After pressing, the juice is treated like a white wine, meaning that it is settled and racked clean of solids at which point it is put into fermentation. Usually the fermentation temperature is on the cooler side to keep the bright fruity aromas from escaping out of the tank during the process. After that, the wine is stabilized, clarified and put to bottle usually quite early in the year.  
 
Saignée
 
Saignée (pronounced Sin-yay) is French meaning “Bleeding”. In this method, rosé is usually a side benefit of making a red wine. Many winemakers use the process of Saignée to concentrate color, flavor, and tannins in a red wine by bleeding off juice. This reduces the skin to juice ratio in the fermentor and allows for a more intense and robust red. The resulting rosé can be quite light in color and it usually has minimal tannin extract from the skins since it is completed so early in the process, within a few hours of crushing the fruit.  Because of this, blending different saignee wines is very important to create a final and holistic rosé which will stand on its own.  
 
Blending
 
Blending to make a rosé is when a white and a red wine are blended together to make a rosé wine. The resulting wine can be made in many different styles to suit many tastes and can be combined with the techniques above to layer in complexity and balance in the finished wine. It should be noted, however that blending to make rosé is not allowed in Europe outside of Rosé Champagne so this method is primarily employed in New World regions. Blending in additional red wine with skin contact or saignee rose would add additional structure, body, and color while blending in a white wine will reduce color and structure while adding aromatic fruit lift and palate freshness.  
 
By using one or more of these techniques, winemakers can change the style of their rosé to create their own unique statement. From pale salmon to deep rose and light and fresh to serious and structured, there is a rosé style for every occasion and particular palate. Luckily for all of us, we are just now entering the rosé season and there are plenty to choose from.

Originally from Greer, South Carolina, Nova McCune Cadamatre moved to New York to pursue Horticulture after what began as a research paper on grapevine diseases at SUNY Morrisville turned into a love of wines and vines. Her career started in Pennsylvania where she gained experience with cool climate varietals and traditional method sparkling wine. After moving to the Finger Lakes region of New York she refined her winemaking skills, both as Winemaker’s Assistant at the Thirsty Owl Wine Company and as a Viticulture student at Cornell University. After becoming one of the first graduates of Cornell’s Viticulture and Enology program in 2006, she moved to California to assume several winemaking roles, gaining diverse experiences in both table and sparkling wines from all areas of California most recently as the red winemaker for Robert Mondavi Winery in the renowned Napa Valley. She has furthered her knowledge through London’s Wine and Spirit Education Trust with an Advanced Certificate in 2007, the Diploma gained in 2010, and is currently pursuing the Master of Wine Certification.Currently, Cadamatre lives in the Finger Lakes, NY with her family where she works as a Winemaker and continues her weekly blog at www.novacadamatre.com

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Comments

  • Snooth User: nixnixnix
    1413047 28

    The vast majority of US rose on UK shelves is, sadly, blush Zinfandel. Leading me to wonder if there are any dry rose wines made in the US

    May 10, 2016 at 12:45 PM


  • Several regions in Spain produce good to outstanding rosés, for example, Navarra (many specific areas), Cigales in the province of Valladolid and my personal preference, the Conça de Barberá area in Catalonia, where the very local grape, Trepat, is gaining widespread and justified fame.

    May 10, 2016 at 1:21 PM


  • Snooth User: wrhayes
    416788 16

    nixnixnix, yes, there are quite a number of excellent dry rose wines made in the US. California, Washington (State), Oregon, and New York all produce fine examples. Much of the rose produced in the Finger Lakes region in New York State is sold out every year by July and August - if not earlier.

    May 10, 2016 at 3:26 PM


  • Try some of the wonderful rose wines from Portugal. There's so much more than Mateus and Lancers nowadays. Don't forget the many tasty Italian rose wines. I recall several years ago the firm of Bolla, who produces Soave, Bardolino, Valpolicella, Amarone & Recioto, makes a rose called "Chiaretto" or "Chiarello" Worth searching out these often unknown hidden vinous gems!

    May 11, 2016 at 4:04 AM


  • PS: I forgot to mention Greece. Greek wines have made a 360 degree change from 35 - 40 years ago and with better production techniques, Their wines are some of the least known here in the US but are worth searching out. One of the benefits of these unknown wines is their reasonable price to quality value. Check 'em out, you'll be pleasantly surprised!

    May 11, 2016 at 4:07 AM


  • Why maceration method is not listed here? :-(

    May 13, 2016 at 2:41 PM


  • Snooth User: Winemaven
    45331 30

    NIX
    "blush Zinfandel is by any definition a rose wine. Also, there are more than a few roses from Europe that contain noticeable residual sugar.

    The US wine biz makes a plethora of "dry" rose wines.

    May 26, 2016 at 3:57 PM


  • Try the Cline Cellars Rosé. It's made using their Ancient Vines Mourvédre grapes. It is absolutely delicious! Try it with a roasted chicken stuffed with rosemary, garlic and lemons. Your home will smell like heaven and served with this rosé is a match made in heaven!

    Jun 01, 2016 at 5:12 PM


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