I met with Larry Schaffer in his Los Olivos tasting room, though we certainly knew about each other through various social media channels and wine boards that we’ve both participated in over the years. Larry is an east coast transplant, living the dream in Santa Barbara, producing wines since the 2006 vintage. Larry’s dream, as it so happens is to produce “Artistic Rhône Red & White Wines” as he states on his website, and as we all known artists tend to be a funny crowd.
With six vintages under his belt Larry is beginning to find his groove, though the continued experimentation going on at Tercero certainly is evidence that the artist here is still in residence. The wines I tasted here were uniformly quite good, yet often in a different mold than one typically encounters in the region and with a bit less consistency from vintage to vintage as Larry continues to make adjustments for vintage variation and to really hone in on his style. I believe the next several vintages will prove pivotal for tercero wines and we’ll see some truly great if unusual wines coming out of the cellars here. I think the 2012 Dry Gewurztraminer might be a harbinger of things to come!
Dusty fruit cores, a little lanolin, lovely spice notes, and a little almond come together on the nose. In the mouth this is very clean and fresh with an edge of roundness up front, followed by nice acidity supporting green pear on the mid palate followed by a bit of citrus pith. Very nice clean and refreshing in the mouth and showing good length with just a suggestion of sweetness to the fruit, very drinkable, little bitter apple cor notes on the finish. Shows just a hint of cheesiness on the nose 88pts
White hawk 100% sand, half in Stainless, half in neutral wood
Stemmy on the nose and lightly smoky with notes of roasted coffee beans, a dusty floral tone, a hint of almost tomato leaf. This shows a very bright entry with nice mid palate richness but this remains bright and fresh with flavors that hint at quince, floral, and Iightly at honeycomb. The long finish shows a bit of white tea, steeped tea character, and has just a bit of polyphenolic bitterness. Pretty elegant viognier. 89pts
Lovely nose with aromatics firmly in the floral, woodsy vein, with deep apricot and honeysuckle base notes with a fine lemon blossom top note. Slippery in the mouth, nice acids, juicy and fine with a lovely bright, crisp character, this has wonderful depth, super fine balance, and a lovely hint of underlying bitterness adding to the depth on the palate. 90pts
A little leather, floral, red flowers, meaty, raw meat, bright and raw, nice edge of leading sweetness with a bit of a caroby/date sweetness to the lightly spicy red fruit, clean, bright high acid mouthfeel with some subtlty on the palate a nice dusty finish, tart red fruit finish. 87pts
In neutral oak for 42 months
65% Grenache, 15% mourvedre, 10% syrah, 10% petite sirah
Spicy, tarry and deep on the nose with a black cherry component, a little camphor, mineral and smoky limestone notes. In the mouth this is relatively light bodied, showing lovely freshness and depth of clear fruit shows nice complexity with sour cherry, wild strawberry and mineral notes, framing notes shows a hint of spice, dried rose petal and herb stem. There’s nice tannin structure on the finish that is supportive but integrated adding a nice tea aspect with spicy mineral notes on the fairly long finish which does show a suggestion of heat 89pts
100% whole cluster, aged in 30 months in neutral
Smoky and gamy on the nose with a charcoal mineral aspect and lots of lovely herbal top notes. This is quite clear texturally with a base layer of tannins under bright wild blackberry fruit and black plum skins though big tannins do build on the finish. Tough and tightly knit, smells like Santa Cruz, a bit earthy, deep and complex. The finish is long as this sort of clings to the mouth with chewy little tannins anchoring savory but not sweet fruit. A lot of wine showing freshness and complexity, it will be interesting to see where this goes. 90pts
Half Camp Four half Learner
30 months in neutral wood, bottled in April
Lightly leathery on the nose then smoky meaty and high toned with herb stems camphor, and a hint of fennel, licorice. A touch lighter than expected on entry with a nice texture that brings together fine grained, ripe tannins and good acids. There’s some vivid red fruit here and a bit of dried herb, dried tarragon with plenty of acid on the long finish which has a bit of a chocolaty aspect to it. 91pts