This is not to say that Brazil is headed down the wrong path. I have to say that one of the biggest surprises while in Serra Gaucha was the very high quality of the Merlot from numerous producers, a grape that often leaves me cold. Ditto for Chardonnay. The style of the wines here, with few exceptions, works with the lean, mineral nature of the fruit instead of fighting against it in an effort to create a fruit bomb.
Another shock, in fact the biggest shock of the entire trip, was the tremendous production of delicious Moscato. Historically, this is an important variety here that seems to come from every producer. We’re talking big numbers of great juice in the hottest market segment in the U.S.. No one has thought that these wines might be worth importing? The fact that we do not see Brazilian Moscato on our shelves is testament to a system that is either unable or unwilling to respond to the wants of consumers effectively, but that is a story for another time. The point is that while there are plenty of wines from Brazil that I do not want to drink, there are plenty that I do want to drink. I’m betting that there will be more with each passing vintage.