The Wines and Wineries of Brazil
What follows are brief snapshots of 10 important Brazilian wineries I visited in May. They all play specific roles in the Brazilian wine industry, whether that means producing high volumes, pioneering emerging regions and varieties, or simply helping to market the wines of Brazil intelligently and effectively.
I know many people are going to disagree with my ratings for many of these wines, primarily because they are made in a style that does not closely adhere to what we believe to be the popularly accepted style. In fact, some of the most vocal criticism is likely to come from those in Brazil itself!
How can these wines possibly be scored so highly when they fail to approach the style, power and consistency of an Argentine or a Chilean wine? That “failure” is exactly why these wines are so appealing. For the most part, they buck the trend of adapting an international style. I think this is because producers realize that they simply cannot make wines like that.
Instead, Brazilian producers have embraced what the land and the climate have given them and in turn have produced wines that are different and unique. These are wines that speak to me. Defending wines that lack the power, richness, depth of fruit and opulence that have become synonymous with “great wine” over the past two decades is a funny position to be in, but the wines of Brazil remind us that there was great wine before this all became the norm. In fact, there continue to be wines that are great for the palate yearning for something other than the norm. Sometimes, you just have to look a little harder to find those wines.
Earn your Wines of Brasil badge for a chance to win tickets to an exclusive, intimate wine tasting class in NYC.
I know many people are going to disagree with my ratings for many of these wines, primarily because they are made in a style that does not closely adhere to what we believe to be the popularly accepted style. In fact, some of the most vocal criticism is likely to come from those in Brazil itself!
How can these wines possibly be scored so highly when they fail to approach the style, power and consistency of an Argentine or a Chilean wine? That “failure” is exactly why these wines are so appealing. For the most part, they buck the trend of adapting an international style. I think this is because producers realize that they simply cannot make wines like that.
Instead, Brazilian producers have embraced what the land and the climate have given them and in turn have produced wines that are different and unique. These are wines that speak to me. Defending wines that lack the power, richness, depth of fruit and opulence that have become synonymous with “great wine” over the past two decades is a funny position to be in, but the wines of Brazil remind us that there was great wine before this all became the norm. In fact, there continue to be wines that are great for the palate yearning for something other than the norm. Sometimes, you just have to look a little harder to find those wines.
Earn your Wines of Brasil badge for a chance to win tickets to an exclusive, intimate wine tasting class in NYC.

Comments
I was surprised that this list didn't include Villa Francioni in Santa Caterina, which in my opinion has one of the most advanced wineries I have seen (been in some of the best in California) and its wine, although expensive particularly for that part of the world, paralleled some of the top Californian wines at that price range.
Aug 14, 2012 at 1:47 PM
Dal Piaz
Hi Nicog,
I didn't make it to Santa Caterina, just to the regions around Bento Goncalves. I hope to visit Santa Caterina and Campahna on my next visit!
Aug 14, 2012 at 2:26 PM
The problem with "good" Brazilian wine is that it is overpriced. A 2006 Lidio Carraro will sell for around US$ 100,00 in Brazil. For this money one can buy a decent Brunello or Barolo, as well as very good Chilean and Argentinean wines.
Aug 14, 2012 at 2:45 PM
Dal Piaz
Thanks for the comment Rod,
I can't argue with it. From what I understand the price of many of these wines in Brazil really makes it difficult to compete with the imports. I only tasted the wines, don't even know most of the pricing.
One point though, if the export market for Brazil improves it should help the domestic wine situation by putting the industry on more stable ground, thereby allowing for the reduction and perhaps eventual elimination of the tariffs that penalize imports, and the wineries themselves, with their increased cash flows could take advantage of certain economies of scale.
Wishful thinking perhaps, but I did like the wines and hope that they get wider recognition for their quality.
Aug 14, 2012 at 3:06 PM
Frisbie
Several years ago I enjoyed a 2003 Cabernet Sauvignon “Marco Luigi” Grande Reserva that was full bodied, fruity and velvety in the mouth. I only know that it came from Southern Brasil. Incidentally, the same house produced a lovely, sparkling white, Tributo Brut, that rivaled the best champagnes I tasted inf France. Sadly, neither was available in the US at the time.
Aug 14, 2012 at 5:08 PM
rto
Rodperri is absolutely right, and without the stupidly high taxes, european wines would be even cheaper, making it very hard to compete with. brazilian sparkling wines, white unoaked and light reds can be very interesting and pleasant, but they are expensive, unfortunately...
Aug 14, 2012 at 5:57 PM
Thanks for the reply Gregory. I certainly hope for your wishful thinking to come through. Wine consumption in Brazil has expanded significantly over the last few years and that in itself is good news as, with market growth comes greater competition and better prices.
I'd like to make an important point that I loved your article. Especially because of your emphasis on the value of uniqueness and personality, over the expected international style currently adopted by many new world wineries. To me, the most fascinating part of appreciating wines is exactly the discovery of new flavors and experiences.
Aug 14, 2012 at 6:10 PM
The South of Brazil is better known by its very expensive wines that cannot compete with the imports. Sparkling wines are the king despite the prices are in the sky. GDP by the way mention several sparkling wines. I personally do not find good Brazilian wines that will open my heart without looting my pocket. If you live in Brazil better buy some French or Italian wines.
Aug 14, 2012 at 6:49 PM
AN
Most of this brands it will be available very soon in USA and distributed nationally by Southern Wine and Spirits, the largest distributor in USA that believes Brazilian Wines are very competitive in price & quality! Jancis Robinson, one of the most recognized wine critic in UK said this week in his page on twitter: "YES, I BELIEVE IN BRAZILIAN WINE POTENTIAL!"
Aug 14, 2012 at 7:31 PM
rto
Pellezzano probably lives in Brazil, as I do, and is correct about the consumer choice: we are buying more european wines than ever!
Aug 14, 2012 at 10:17 PM
Zotz
Hello people!
I agree Brazilian wines are quite expensive within Brazil and if one doesn’t know too much about the issue, buying can be very difficult. We all know that because of the quantity of labels offered, there are more and more ‘stuck in the middle’. Those can be good wines and consumer then should take advantage and search to find out the best cost x pleasure surrounding this level. I mean, it’s possible to find good Brazilian wines on a medium/premium category. In order to catch that, curiosity and time are necessary though.
Regarding sparkling, it is not true that they are expensive. Find bellow some nice ones at reasonable prices. All them are champenoise and mostly use chardonnay and pinot noir. Show, at least, a bit of complexity and strength.
Fausto Pizzato Brut R$ 32,60 APROX. US$ 16.00
http://www.costibebidas.com.br/prod...
Cave Geisse Brut R$ 53,06 aprox. US$ 26.00
http://www.vinhosnet.com.br/produto...
Salton Brut Évidence R$ 48,00 aprox. US$ 24.00
http://www.salton.com.br/novo/loja/...
Dal Pizzol Brut Champenoise R$ 53,06 aprox. US$ 26.00
http://www.vinhosnet.com.br/produto...
Valmarino Brut Champenoise R$ 29,00 aprox. US$ 14.50
http://www.vinhosesabores.com.br/de...
Aug 15, 2012 at 3:35 PM
OK! GDP is right when he mentions sparkling Brazilian wines. If one is not in France you do not need to care much producing sparking wines. Try to find a brut nature in Brazil and you'll need to dig deep to try to find something. Of course if one is looking for a not so expensive sec or demi-sec then go to the South of Brazil.
If one is used to Taurasi, Primitivo, Falerno del Massico, Greco di Tufo, Falanghina, Aglianico,Solopaca,Asprino di Aversa (interesting wine and interesting way they grow the plant), Cirò Bianco just to mention a few wines coming from the region that produces wine since 1,500 years BC, continue please browsing the imports aisle of your wine shop (if you are in Brazil).
Aug 15, 2012 at 6:52 PM
What a great post. While production has been declining in most regions for the past ten years other countries have take busy growing. I have not had the opportunity to taste anty Brazilian wine but having read this post I will sample some.if I can find bottles in Italy (I doubt as Italians are like the French: they only stock italian wines) Vincent from http://www.seosynovation.com
Aug 16, 2012 at 11:30 AM
av
Hello Gregory! Congratulations! And don`t forget to visit São Paulo next time! :-)
Humberto Leite
Aug 19, 2012 at 9:04 AM
Gregory, following-up on your article, I went ahead to buy a few bottles from Don Guerino, which I had never tasted before. Indeed, this was a good surprise. I bought a few bottles of the 2011 Reserva Merlot, at a very reasonable US$ 14.00, as well as a couple of their 2007 Gran Reserva Ancellotta and a couple of the 2007 Gran Reserva Teroldego, both wines priced at around US$ 25.00. The Reserva Merlot was a great tip: a very pleasant wine, with good structure. The great surprise came from the 2007 Gran Reserva Ancellotta. What a delicious little wine! I was not familiar with this varietal and came to learn it is common mainly in the Emilia-Romagna region of Italy.The wine from Don Guerino is a light/medium red, pleasurable and easy to drink and pair. For Brazilian standards, I believe I have found an excellent value with these wines. Thanks for the tip!
Sep 04, 2012 at 3:22 PM
The 2011 Reserva one can pick for $17 in Brazil. For the other grapes (their origin is Emilia-Romagna and Trentino) $30 will be enough.
Don Guerino has also some fair sparkling wines (Prosecco, Chardonnay and Moscatel at $12 each). I do not know if GDP tasted them when in the South of Brazil.
Sep 04, 2012 at 4:34 PM
Thanks for talking about Brazilian wine. I spent several weeks in Campanha, a region in the south that borders Uruguay and in Serra Guacha. I will say that I was very impressed with the wines. I just now brought in Lidio Carrera's wines into my restaurant in San Diego. Brazilian wines are unique and the best examples were wines without oak or very little oak. These wines show excellent terroir and the true nature of the Brazilian fruit. One winery that should get recognition is Barcarola in the Serra Guacha, excellent wines! Here is a little post with a brief history of Brazilian wine. http://mauricescru.com/wine-posts/b... Thank you for the great article.
Sep 05, 2012 at 11:27 AM
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