The Seductive Reds of Friuli Venezia-Giulia

Christy Canterbury, Master of Wine, takes us on a journey through the wines of this Northern Italian region





Merlot
Merlot has been in Friuli since the 1800s, thanks to the Hapsburgs. It can be quite leafy but not in top examples. In good bottlings, there is a pleasant herbal character.

Le Due Terre 2008 Merlot
This is a powerful Merlot both in flavor and in mouthfeel. The fruit is fully ripe, yet the dominant aromas are savory with non-fruit notes. Earth, minerals and roasted coffee beans are the focus while black cherries linger in the background. There’s a pretty rosemary note, too. The moderate tannins offer some grip, but it’s the marked acidity that really wows on the palate. Drink through 2016.

Perusini 2008 Merlot Etichetta Nera
A sapid and elegant red with gentle though framing tannins and mouthwatering acidity. Aromas include peak-of-ripeness red currants, lingonberries and blueberries along with fresh tarragon and lightly roasted coffee beans. This wine exudes energy. Drink now to 2018.

Villa Russiz 2008 Merlot Graf de la Tour
This Merlot is a bit stubborn about releasing its aromas, but it responds well to decanting. I suggest two hours if you have them and can resist sipping that long. Unusual for varietal Merlot, which tends to linger in the red fruit zone, there are blackberry and black currant aromas here. The tannins caress and the acidity is quite tame for Friuli. Drink now to 2016.
 
“Cabernet”
Friuli grows a good bit of Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon. When blended, it’s often simply labeled “Cabernet.”

Pighin 2008 Cabernet
This is a blend of 40 percent Cabernet Franc and 60 percent Cabernet Sauvignon. The complexity of herbal notes here strikes up quite a chorus along with blackberry, underbrush and grilled game notes. There’s nice length, too. Drink now to 2015.

Pinot Nero
Friuli isn’t known for Pinot Nero, but Plozner has been making it since 1967.

Plozner 2007 Pinot Nero
This is a delicate Pinot Nero at 12.5 percent alcohol. The aromas are subtle yet invitingly complex. Red cherries, ripe field strawberries, mushrooms and truffles all play roles. The tannins glide across the palate and the bright acidity is well integrated. Worth searching for. Should drink well through 2014.

Pignolo
Pignolo means finicky, which perfectly describes how this grape grows on the vine. Its yields are poor, but what it does yield is rich in color and impressively age-worthy.

Moschioni 2003 Pignolo
This is a monstrous wine! It is dense in flavor and packed with complexity. There is a richness of fruit, given the hot vintage and the producer’s preference for this wine style and tendency to let fruit hang a long time. The fruit is still quite youthful and displays aromas of prune, fig and blackberry. Leather, fallen leaves and cigar round out the package. Drink through 2020.

Sant’Elena 2007 Quantum l'Auctoctono (Pignolo)
This is another massive wine that offers layers upon layers of intense complexity. Dried herbs, worn leather, cumin and broken branches provide the start. Super-ripe wild forest berries spread across the palate. The tannins are broad and delightfully rustic. The acidity helps the long finish hold on. Drink now to 2018.

Refosco
Refosco dal Peduncolo Rosso, or Refosco with Red Stalks, is Friuli’s most-planted native red grape. It provides generous, purple color and bright acidity. Simpler styles drink well with a slight chill.

Ronchi di Cialla 2008 Refosco dal Peduncolo Rosso

This bottling explodes with aromas of pomegranate, rhubarb, savory notes and dried lavender. It is joyfully youthful, pleasingly medium-bodied and quite lengthy on the finish. The tannins are slightly edgy. Drink now through 2016, though there’s no reason to wait.

Schioppettino
Schioppettino is also difficult to cultivate. In fact, it was banned from Friuli’s vineyards for a while in the last half of the 20th century. When cultivated with TLC, however, its resulting wines reward the taster. The grape possesses oodles of tannins and cracked black pepper feistiness that is not unlike Syrah.

Le Vigne di Zamò 2005 Schioppettino
This wine smells like the spice rack. Black peppercorns, coriander and poppy seed mingle together across a broad array of red and black forest fruits. There’s also an alluring musk note. The aggressive tannins are appealingly grippy and seem to be emphasized by the tingling acidity. Though it drinks well now, it can hold through 2016.

Tazzelenghe
Tazzelenghe means tongue cutter. Enough said?

Girolamo Dorigo 2007 Tazzelenghe di Butrio
Dynamic in aromas and flavors, this wine shows cassis, baked cherry pie, smoked game, lilac, earth and minerals. The smell alone is worth the price. Then, the palate unfolds with generous quantities of aggressive tannins and striking acidity. It’s a mouthful! You can enjoy this now, but it’s worth aging through 2015. It should evolve to benefit through 2020.

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Comments

  • Snooth User: TessaB
    1139499 14

    Finally someone is talking about Friuli reds--ahhhhhhhh :-)

    Sep 18, 2012 at 4:10 PM


  • Snooth User: Christy Canterbury MW
    Hand of Snooth
    1060100 54,944

    Cin cin!

    Sep 18, 2012 at 5:21 PM


  • Snooth User: Wayne Young
    1109197 59

    Nice! Thanks Christy! Great post on a subject near and dear to my heart!

    Sep 19, 2012 at 5:21 AM


  • Snooth User: Christy Canterbury MW
    Hand of Snooth
    1060100 54,944

    Thanks, Wayne! Coming from you, that's a big compliment.

    Sep 19, 2012 at 9:38 AM


  • Snooth User: Peter BP
    1118572 43

    I've been a fan of Friuliano reds for years! Geronimo Dorigo is one of the finest producers
    In the area.

    Sep 19, 2012 at 2:49 PM


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