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Jura’s lure is its relative immunity to modern winemaking. Only traditional grape varieties are permitted: Pinot Noir, Poulsard (also known as Ploussard), Trousseau, Chardonnay and Savagnin. A handful of large producers and cooperatives aside, this strip of land is home to the small grower-producer. Like Burgundy, vineyard plots have been divided over the years, splitting ownership, and it’s not unusual for vignerons to own a mere few rows of vines in some of Jura’s most esteemed vineyards.
Jura offers food wines, especially the oxidative whites, which go down a treat with the intensely flavored and local repast of Coq au Vin Jaune, while a hunk of Comté cheese is just right with an earthy Poulsard. Try it.
Domaine de Montbourgeau Crémant du Jura NV
A yeasty, low-dosage sparkling wine with hints of lemony acidity. Delicious alone and is a perfect wine for fish.
Domaine de Montbourgeau E’toile Chardonnay 2007
A savory wine, offering a salty tang with hints of hazelnuts. Fermented in foudre and then transferred to 600 liter barrels for 2 years, during which time the wine is not topped.
A rich, gold-hued wine, with lots of saline character and sherry-like quality. Classic Vin Jaune.
Domaine de la Tournelle Arbois Trousseau des Corvées 2007
A spicy mineral-laden, medium-bodied red wine with enough tannic structure to make this worth storing in the cellar for a few more years.
Pameladevi Govinda is a freelance wine and spirits writer based in New York City. She has contributed to Decanter, CITY, Vibe, Daily Candy, Cheers, Beverage Dynamics, Spain Gourmetour, Imbibe magazine and more. She is extremely passionate about low interventionist wines that speak of place and tradition. She writes about such wines on a regular basis for her blog, which can be accessed via her website at, www.pamgovinda.com.
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