Teroldego is almost exclusively produced in Trentino’s Campo Rotaliano, a fertile floodplain that stretches north of the city of Trento. There are a few examples coming from the Veneto, as well. Experiments with the grape have proved successful in both South America and California, but the very specific corner of Trentino that gave birth to Teroldego continues to produce the highest expression of the grape.

The soils here are thin and cover deep layers of alluvial rubble, which lends Teroldego a stony underpinning to its fruity side. Much like Lagrein to the north in the Alto Adige, Teroldego has undergone a revolution as of late. Pergolas have been replaced with Guyot and the wines are being crafted in a more concentrated style.

Teroldego generally produces medium-bodied wines with soft tannins and bright acidity. The wines are quite fruity with flavors of dark berry fruits such as mulberry, black raspberry and boysenberry, all accented with notes of drying grass, aromatic wood, river stones and bitter herbs.

The efforts to extract more from Teroldego and the over reliance on barriques by some winemakers have produced wines that are often big and rich, but that have lost the nuance and transparency that make for a truly compelling Teroldego wine. I recently tasted over two dozen current release wines while in Italy and these are my top rated wines.

As is often the case, not all of these wines are in wide distribution. I’ve included them here to offer a broad-stroke picture of the style of wine that Teroldego is capable of.

Trento image via Shutterstock