Actually that may not be entirely true. The Rocche dei manzoni Riservas from 1978 and 1982 are credited with being some of the first fully barriqued wines and they turned out splendidly, though the current releases from Rocche dei Manzoni seem to be wildly over-oaked. Or perhaps they’re not quite ready yet. Even the modernist need some time in bottle to show their best. At least thats what I was hoping. You see after many visits to Piedmont, this past MayI finally made it a point to visit those great modernists whose wines had yet to measure up.
I’ve tasted plenty of traditional Barolo on release, but less modernist, especially over the past decade or so since I realised they generally weren’t my thing. In fact while tasting the 2009s this past spring I was in fact struck by how little I liked some of the modernist wines, while honestly finding several producers wines to be quite compelling. I am all too familiar with my own fallibility so I decided there and then to do a little experiment. One where we could see if these modernist wines that I don’t like just need some time, and if in fact the modernist wines as a whole have fulfilled their promise of being more approachable than their traditionalist siblings.
Thinking back to 1994 I considered what might be the worst time to taste traditionally produced wines. Even the traditionalist wines of today are a bit more approachable than the versions being produced 30 years ago. Working on that assumption I figured that the wines to try for a tasting like this should be about 10 years old, so that brought me to 2003. I don’t want to taste 25 2003 of anything, so moving on 2002 was a washout in Barolo, and then there is 2001. A rather grand vintage with the added benefit of my having been bought quite extensively by yours truly on release. I actually supplied the lions share of the wines for this tasting. 17 of these wines having been purchased on release while I was in retail. I only mention this as an aside because even these wines that saw almost no time in the supply chain were not perfect. In fact two or possibly three of the bottom four wines of the tasting were in fact damaged. One would hope.