I recently tasted some older Bordeaux with a few writers and Snoothers here in New York. Some words have already been written about the evening, in part by myself, but primarily by fellow attendees. A few people have communicated privately with me to ask about the wines and my impressions, so I figured I would take the time to write up my notes and add a few thoughts and impressions.
First off, this was a wine philanthropy tasting. It is my personal belief that those of us who had the means to buy great wines in our youths owe something for that privilege. This debt is paid off by sharing the wines with those who were not as fortunate or, even better, with those who will not be as fortunate. I came of age in a time when outrageously expensive wines were $50, wines that were great but expensive were $25 and wines of character could be had for $10.
Photo courtesy Megan Mallen via Flickr/CC
I recently wrote an article comparing the wine prices of 1986 and today to help illustrate the broad jumps wine has made in the intervening years. Today, wines of character may cost $20-30, great but expensive wines are $100-150, and those $50 wines often sell for hundreds and even thousands of dollars. We can’t expect the next generation of wine drinkers to have experiences that build the level of passion we share without providing a little help. In my mind, popping a few corks is the best way to go about helping!
So with that reason, I invited some fellow writers over to talk about wine, writing and the like. I chose a group of Bordeaux to taste because there was a good story among the bottles and because that was what I had on hand.
I am now getting ready for a second installment of this “Drink Greg’s Wine” philanthropy movement. This event is set to include wines from some of the premier wine producing regions and vintages in Europe. 1983 Bordeaux, 1989 Barolo, 1996 Burgundy, 1997 Tuscany, 1998 Northern Rhone and 2001 Germans. But for now, back to the Bordeaux at hand.
I chose the wines that I did so that there would be some overlap between vintages, appellations and styles. Three of the wines came from Ch. Meyney, the St. Estephe Cru Bourgeois producer that always over-delivered values back in the day. There was certainly a good story there, $7 wines that delivered typicity and great ability to age.
To contrast the joyous rusticity that Meyney expresses, I chose a pair of vintages of Cos d’Estournel, St. Estephe’s grandest Chateau and one that vied for the appellation’s wine of the vintage nearly every year. Cos has changed much since the wine we tasted were produced. It now vies for top honors with the first growths in most vintages, and is sadly priced accordingly.
The final wine, a single vintage of Paulliac’s Ch. Lynch Bages, is a wine that straddles so many of the story lines that I find it fascinating. It’s from a different appellation to start, shares a vintage with one of the bottles of Cos, and is an over-performer of sorts, on the level of the Meyney. It’s from one of my favorite producers in Bordeaux for that same reason. “Over-performer” is a description ill suited for much of today’s Bordeaux, but one that still characterizes Lynch Bages. Despite my opinion, many people might argue just the opposite, that Lynch Bages is an under-performer as it rarely shows well in its youth. But with patience, this ugly duckling does indeed turn into the beautiful swan, as Bordeaux so typically did back in the day.
So there it is, layered story lines, all ready to be told with the mere uncorking of bottles. This, to a certain extent, is why I enjoy wine so much. So, how do the stories pan out?
Comments
Mr. Dal Piaz,
I have always thought that one of the best parts of being a wine geek is being able to share wines with people unfamiliar with the depth and breadth of available wines--in particular older wines, as there are not a lot of people who buy and hold wines. Your column has inspired me to make a greater effort to share the old bottles I have. I had little money for the 1986s, but I will open some 1989's tonight for friends. Thanks for the inspiration.
Terry
Nov 11, 2011 at 12:20 PM
Dal Piaz
Hi Terry,
That is great news! Maybe some day we can share a few bottles? I would love to hear how your evening goes and hope your bottles shine. Please let me know if you're ever out my way here in NYC.
Best regards
Greg
Nov 11, 2011 at 1:18 PM
list
Greg, do you find that some younger wine drinkers don't understand the wines? As someone with an old-fashioned palate, I've found that some younger people who grew up with Parker wines don't understand the fuss over the excellent wines of the 1970s and 80s.
Nov 11, 2011 at 7:19 PM
I would love to understand wines this way...is it sappy to admit this article brought tears of missed opportunities/nostalgia to my eyes? Thank you for preserving a bit of wine lore for those of us who don't have it. I grew up in a teetotaling family and did not begin to enjoy wine until a few years ago (in my 30s). So much to learn.
Nov 11, 2011 at 7:27 PM
Walker
My passion for wine and discussion grew in the late 1970's when I would periodically visit a cooking store of an older gentleman. He had lost his wife and was lloking for comfort. I was looking for knowledge. He sold French wines in the back of his store. One day he said to sit while he oened a wine that I have long since forgotten. However, as we sipped on the wine and he talked, I grew more knowledgable about wine and life. After several months of doing this, one day, his shop was completely empty and him gone.The memories of this early mentor needing company and me knowledge are the only thing left of our encounters. From this beginning, I have become passionate about wine, life, and the companionship associated with sharing that unique bottle. Wine is meant to be shared!
Nov 11, 2011 at 8:28 PM
s
Thank you Zoe for that '...is it sappy to admit this article brought tears of missed opportunities/nostalgia to my eyes?' -- I dare not think about all the missed oppportunities because they are also reminders of a life that is successfully behind me! And thank you Greg, with my whole heart for your philanthropy -- I'm going to do my very best to emulate this in some way - seeing that I don't have access to old cellared beauties, neither am too flush to buy new ones, but do have a great philanthropic heart and a humongous love for wine! Thank you also for the wine-coaching in this article. Wholeheartedly concur, Wine-Walker --- wine is meant to be shared, especially good wine!
Nov 12, 2011 at 2:01 PM
og
There is one simple rule which many US wine drinkers will have to learn how to follow.
To start a wine collectiuon, you have to:
a) Buy wine, and then
b) NOT DRINK IT!!
It's a sad fact that as much as 90 percent of the wine bought in the U.S. is drunk within 24 hours - and some 95 percent of all wine purchased in the U.S. is consumed within a week.
That, my friends, is a very shortlived collection.
Here's our own, very British take on the pleasures of buying wine and NOT drinking it:
http://sedimentblog.blogspot.com/20...
Nov 14, 2011 at 6:12 AM
Pevere
... i've writed a comment for a half of hour and is gone :(
Save your bottles but take care of time, don't let your wine die in the bottles.
Nov 22, 2011 at 11:13 AM
I store a lot of my wine, but I make sure that the younger bottles meant for consumption are opened within the year :) I love to drink wine, and I also love looking at my growing collection, so I get quite the pleasure from both worlds :)
Feb 17, 2012 at 1:39 AM
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