Sunsational Santorini

On the unlikely origin of Assyrtiko


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Sunsational Santorini Is there anything normal about the wines of Santorini? Don’t count on it. This black crescent of an island set against the blue Aegean and dotted with white outcroppings of life seems an unlikely place to live, much less grow grapes, but grow grapes they do and have been doing for centuries.

With a long viticultural history to back them, the current crop of Santorini winemakers (a small crop at that with 10 wineries) is determined to fulfill the promise of this desert island. Yes, in addition to being hot and very windy, the island is also basically a desert with vines that lay about on the ground like so many exasperated baskets, frustrated by their inability to do what vines do, and that means grow up.

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