Following the two previous articles on Barolo and La Morra, I am wrapping up my reviews of 2007 Barolo today with the wines from Serralunga, which are typically among my favorite wines of the region. 2007 has proven to be no different (read my take on the vintage as a whole: Don’t Believe the Hype), though you may not be able to tell from the notes that follow.
Photo courtesy Blue Moon in Her Eyes via Flickr/CC
The truth is, while Serralunga can produce some profound wines, many of the best do not make it into this tasting and even those that do are limited by Serralunga’s character.
That character, medicinal, austere, reticent and certainly not fruit dependent, allows the wines of Serralunga to excel in years when the fruit is somehow less than perfect, though there is a penalty to be paid in the early years. Without that young fruit, that baby fat that the other communes of Barolo benefit from, Serralunga’s wines appear stern and sometimes downright mean in their youth. But with patience, the magic happens, and sometimes one gets a glimpse of that greatness.
These notes come from a large tasting I attend each year called Nebbiolo Prima. The following list of wines was tasted over a four-hour span one morning, so please take them with a grain of salt. My impressions are brief and my scoring simplified to a 10-point scale. Included in the tasting were several multi-commune blends, as well as wines from some lesser-known appellations.
Wines scoring 8/10
Bruna Grimaldi Badarina Serralunga - sweet fruit, a touch of graham cracker and cocoa, earthy, aromatic tree bark, grows nicely in the glass, quite rond, fills the mouth with sweet fruit, a touch dried, a bit dark not very berry scented, integrated acids, soft tannins, top note of wood spice, well integrated, very well put together, a bit spicy finish, dried strawberry fruit, nice mineral tone, bit of wood spice, almost stemmy tannin note 8
Brovia Ca’Mia Serralunga- lovely berry fruit in alcohol nose, wood is fighting for control, has some nice herbal, medicinal elements, a bit of strawberry ice creaminess, soft entry, rich, lots of sweet, bright strawberry fruit, nice mid-palate, clear, a bit simple, very nicely put together, fruit driven but not fruity, nice lightly astringent finish, good length 8