From the Cellar: Terlan!
7 Decades of Amazing White Wines
From the Cellar: Terlan! I am guilty. I Ignore too many wines but above all I ignore aged white wines, and that is a shame. White wines all to often serve a purpose; like lemon for fish or mint for lamb, we use them to refresh the palate and help accent a meal rather than for setting the tone. Aged white wines are of course rarer than aged red wines. It’s a matter of usage, but also due to the simple fact that fewer producers are bottling whites that can stand the test of time, or so we might believe, but there they are right under our noses!
Maybe it’s our own prejudices that prevent us from ageing our white wines. These delicious to drink wines couldn’t possibly get any better, could they? Well in truth that is debatable, though a recent tasting of wines from the Cantina Terlan in Italy’s Sudtirol, from vintages dating back to 1956 certainly challenge many of our assumptions. Of course these are incredibly well made wines from a terroir that endows the juice with the balance and bakbone to age, but at the same time these were wines produced to be sold young and consumed soon after purchase. The fact that they remain so pristine, complex, and fresh has to do with the cellaring, fresh from the cantina as it were, but also with each wine's innate ability to age. And that is where we go wrong.