The Domaine de Montille is one of those wineries whose wines tend to polarize people. Their wines make no concessions to the immediately drinkable, lush, and rich wines that are favored by many critics these days. Instead the de Montilles continue to make wines that speak of their place and season. Traditions begun by the father, Hubert de Montille, are now faithfully carried out (since 2001) by the son, Etienne,, who continues to create Terroirist Burgundies of the highest order.
And therein lies the rubs, well just a little bit of it. Many people heap acclaim on the wines of de Montille based more on philosophy, as opposed to the wines themselves.
What to expect: BurgundyThe incredibly complex and elegant expression of Pinot Noir is Burgundy's grand allure. No other wine region has been able to coax so much from this fickle grape. With its gentle structure cloaked in wonderfully precise yet transparent fruit tones that range from cranberry to black cherry, Burgundy is a wine that reveals itself slowly. Traditional techniques used in the region, such as including stems in the fermentation and utilizing neutral wood barrels for aging, allow the wine to achieve a level of complexity that few can match.
Now don’t get me wrong, I am definitely not knocking the wines. I am knocking some of the reviews and comments on the wines in their youth. In our rush to embrace the “right” way of doings thing, to our minds, sometimes we loose sight of what is being done.
If you’re going to be telling everyone how good they are the least you can do is prepare people for the de Montille experience. I was fortunate to be able to catch up with Etienne at the recent Montreal Passion Vin and spoke with him briefly about the world of wine, of of course Burgundy.