I've had  a love/hate relationship with Dolcetto for years now. People tend to be surprised when I tell them that I don't really like Dolcetto, and don't really buy much. What I really should have been saying for the past decade or so was that I didn't like the direction Dolcetto had taken, and as so often happens with these things the pendulum has begun to swing in the direction I prefer!

In all honesty this really started happening about 2009 or so, but these last few, very cool vintages in Piedmont have helped accelerate that shift. Many of the wines I tasted on my recent visit to the region were absolutely gorgeous, which for me means that they were light bodied, relatively low alcohol examples of Dolcetto that celebrated the racy purity and soft forest floor complexity that the best examples offer. To be sure there are super fresh examples as well as more powerfully built wines that are essentially made in this style, but across the board the wines I've tasted recently just show more Dolcetto character, and less overt winemaking that had been the case just five short years ago.