Discovering Carmenere

Tasting notes + 7 top picks





2007 Hacienda Araucano Alka Colchagua Valley, 14.5%, $50
This is fairly sweet and candied on the nose with smoky, asphalt notes and hints of bitter chocolate and chalk over a deep coulis of astringent red fruits. This is lush with the acid almost completely hidden until the mid-palate, where it pops through the cover of fruit lending brightness to the astringent red fruited mid-palate. There’s a lovely playful skin of tannin that fills in under the fruit adding some firmness to the palate, and rich tobacco and chocolate tones that adds fine complexity. This grows nicely in the glass with good freshness and clarity. Though the cocoa gets a bit much for me, the chocolate-laced finish is long and ends with a fine edge. 93pts

2009 Apaltagua Envero Gran Reserva Colchagua Valley Apalta Vineyard Selection, 14%, $15
Nicely aromatic with deep black currant fruit and attractive roast red pepper and herbal elements framed by well-judged toasty oak and carob nuances. Big and powerful in the mouth with a blocky, inelegant feel on entry, as all the structure is completely wrapped in this rich yet silky fruit. It’s a slightly surprising wine and it takes some time to fully warm up to since the aromatics promised more nuance than the palate currently delivers, but this has excellent potential many will enjoy this today for all its sumptuous ripeness. But on the finish, the fruit lightens up somewhat, revealing more red fruits and allowing hints of the aromatic complexity of the nose to return. The acidity on the finish is very refreshing and the tannins superbly fine, allowing a nice tobacco leaf, nutmeg, spice element to roll out on the finale. 91pts

2009 Marques de Casa Concha Peumo, 14%, $20
This is tight on the nose with aromatic French oak and a small core of rather precise, lightly candied black currant/blackberry fruit peeking out. A touch soft in the mouth, this nonetheless is well-balanced with a nice combination of weight and intensity. Like the nose, one gets an impression of a wine not giving up its all but what is here is very attractive: red and black currant fruit, a nice streak of earth, a hint of caramel from the oak, all leading to a lovely finish that is moderately long and fruit-driven (though not fruity), with the oak lurking until the finale, where it adds some peppery spice. 91pts

2009 Aromo Private Reserve Carmenere Maule Valley, 13.5%, $15
Fairly minty on the nose but at the same time focused and clear, with a very pretty array of earth, oak, spice and crisp fine herb notes that come together nicely. This has plenty of weight but it’s still well-balanced with juicy acidity and lovely fine tannins that are embedded in the rich blackberry fruit. The backend shows wood tannin and nice tobacco leaf and spiced notes with wild blueberries on the finish. I would like to see some more length here, but this marries power and elegance quite nicely with a really lovely integration of fruit and oak. New World and unabashed, but pretty delicious. I have to add that I don’t mind herbaceousness in my Carmenere, but this has very little and yet manages to be fresh. 91pts

2008 Montes Alpha Colchagua Valley Marchigue Vineyard, 14.5%, $22
A hint of VA greets the nose followed by rather wooly, vaguely animal notes and plenty of shaved bitter chocolate all piled up over dried red berry fruits. On entry, this is rather focused and elegant; but it balloons in the mouth, revealing impressive concentration and depth. The fruit remains youthful but not fruity and while the oak is prominent, it’s balanced out by the fruit. This grows into a rich, almost chewy wine with a nice blend of roasted coffee bean, toasty spice and nuanced herb notes all accenting the subtle fruit. The finish is dark, spicy and oily, recalling coffee beans and licorice with a peppery spice on the finale. 91pts

2008 Ventisquero Grey Single Block Maipo Valley, 14.5%, $20
This is rather restrained, yet in a way quite aromatic. It’s not intense but it is complex with sweet oak, fruit, mint and earth notes coming together in a slow blossom. The fruit is quite dark and the mint adds a medicinal edge to the tarry core with a light cherry cough syrup aspect growing in the glass. Rich and polished in the mouth with almost jammy blackberry fruit up front then a more restrained mid-palate that plays off the slight austerity of the oak without drying the palate. It’s an interesting dance between fruit sweetness and wood tannin right through the fairly long finish, though the wood does win out in the end as this ends on a slightly drying spicy finale. 90pts

2009 Aromo Estate Bottled Maule Valley, 13.5%, $10
A bit tight on the nose with nice mineral components playing off the cigar box oak and gentle cherry fruit that’s wrapped around a soft vegetal bass note. This enters the mouth with nice balance, offering sweet fruit that has a certain transparency and juicy, fruity acidity in a fun package. There are soft tannins adding to the supple nature of this wine and the fruit powers through the mid-palate in an obvious but never rude way, then fades rather quickly leaving one with a quite earthy and lightly toasted oak finale. I think the finish here might improve with some time, but this already is quite good. 89pts

2010 Apaltagua Reserva Apalta Valley Colchagua, 14%, $13
This smells a bit sour with a rather pronounced green pepper and herbaceous top note on the nose. There’s a nice lurking base of fruit here, but it’s hard to get through the vegetal aromas. In the mouth this is bright and juicy with a succulent feel and rather elegant notes of cherry and blueberry fruit buffered by sweet oak spice. There’s a very appealing element here and perhaps this just needs some more time in the bottle, but the nose and a rather tough, drying finish leave me wanting more. 88pts

Check out tasting notes for 7 Top Carmeneres


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Comments

  • Where is the Montes Purple Angel? If you are talking about Carmenere you need to experience the best. In fact, there are so many wonderful opportunities in Carmenere that you need to try the offerings from folks like Errazuriz, especially the 2007 Single Vinyard, and Viu Manent.

    Jun 20, 2011 at 8:21 PM


  • Snooth User: debfarb
    608196 174

    I think you missed the boat by not including 2006 Emiliana "Natura" Carmenere, an organic wine from Chile's Emiliana Organico. The Natura is a new label from the eco-conscious producer. Made from carmenere (87%), syrah (4%), petite verdot (4%) and malbec (1%) grown in Los Robles, in the Colchagua Valley, the wine is an intense red color. Its bouquet is seductive, with notes of chocolate, black fruits, toffee and spices. On the palate the wine is voluminous, with soft, round tannins and firm structure. There's a nice balance between fruit and oak and a lingering, sweet finish. It's very good and you missed it!

    Jun 21, 2011 at 1:06 AM


  • Snooth User: JonDerry
    Hand of Snooth
    680446 2,859

    Thanks for the tips, definitely dig me some Carm!

    Jun 21, 2011 at 12:58 PM


  • Snooth User: RubenPinto
    840585 13

    Could someone please take those annoying fb, tweet signs off

    Jun 30, 2011 at 5:23 AM


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