As many of you know, I am a big fan of the wines of the village of Verduno. I was introduced to this small hamlet largely because of the wines that Fabio Alessandria has been making in modest cellars at Burlotto. While the premises and actual cellar may be modest -- and while we're at it, so is Fabio -- the wines are simply spectacular.
The wines of Verduno tend to be light and elegant as far as Piedmontese wines go, but they certainly don't lack for flavor, intensity, or balance. Fabio has been consistently crafting some of the finest wines of the region for several years now, and it is always a treat to visit him and take stock of the recent releases.
A tasting at Burlotto is a special experience. One not only gets to try the great Barolo of Burlotto -- single vineyard wines from the famous Crus of Monvigliero, from which Burlotto makes an iconic wine -- and Cannubi (one of the granddaddy's of all Barolo vineyards), but also inventive wines like the Elatis Rose, Freisa, and Veduno's own native daughter, Pelaverga.
The AuthorGregory Dal Piaz is a proponent and admirer of a broad range of wines and styles. During his decades of collecting and tasting he has discovered that a wine need not cost a fortune to drink well. Feel free to ask him questions at the Snooth Forums where he regularly engages with beginners and experts alike.
The wines from Burlotto really capture the style of Verduno. These are never forced, and have an elegance and ethereal tone to them. They rely as much on frangrance as power to grab the consumer's attention. I love the style: Bright, full of fresh acid, ripe with velvety tannins. I'm not sure how Fabio achieves this fine balance but the wines tend to burst with red fruit and yet have gentle spice notes and wonderful hints of herb and flowers that add remarkable complexity to these wines.
The winemaking style at Burlotto is firmly traditional, even if the barrels (big botti) are made of French oak. Fabio prefers French oak because he feels that they actually contribute less to the wines than comparable Slavonian oak barrels! In all other respects, these wines are made in as traditional a style as anyone's, and frankly, the results speak for themsleves.
I urge everyone to try these wines. They are classic examples of their types and have remained exceptionally affordable in a period when many wines of equal stature have soared in price. And as an added bonus, the style here, bright with juicy acidity and ripe tannins, make these wines wonderful food wines, and remarkably flexible at that. I hope you enjoy them as much as I do. For additional information on Burlotto, please see my previous article on the great wines of Burlotto.
A thoughtful Fabio Alesandria (R) discussing the wines of Burlotto.