If you thought Allemand was a bit obscure, at least his wines are immediately accessible and easy to appreciate. Edmond Vatan, and his daughter Anne since 2008, have made a career of producing challenging wines in Sancerre from both Sauvignon Blanc and occasionally minute quantities of Pinot Noir. Here I focus on their white.
These are wines born from the famous chalky soils of the region, and they deliver that chalk on the palate. Chiseled, incredibly pure and well defined, they slice across the palate almost painfully in their youth, but with age they begin to reveal their inner beauty. The beauty tends to remain just that, something innate and tightly coiled. These wines are like diamonds, they are not remarkable by themselves; light, in the case of diamonds, is necessary to appreciate the beauty.
In the case of Vatan’s wines, what you need is to pay attention and to let the wine age for half a decade or more. Then, you will be rewarded with intense perfumes and an explosion of weightless intensity on the palate. These wines are notoriously difficult to find after release, so scoop up any 2009s or 2010s you might be able to find. $70 may seem like a lot for Sauvignon Blanc, but not this Sauvignon Blanc.
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Bucket List Wines: France
GDP's bucket list of French wines
Tags: France, wine lists, Fun with wine, wine guides, Gregory Dal Piaz
Comments
Your right, you should get grief on excluding the great white burgundies, some of the finest expression of chardonnay on the planet. The fact that we've all had it extends to bordeaux and burgundy too, but those didn't get left out. Because France produces so many fine wines, perhaps the list should be extended to 15 or so. CDP? Beaujolais? Vouvray?Champagne?Chablis?
Jun 14, 2012 at 3:32 PM
Dal Piaz
You are of course correct. There are so many great wines one should try that I had to trim the list. Maybe parts two and three are in order. Thanks for the comment.
Jun 14, 2012 at 4:07 PM
Well, you could have left out the reds from the Loire so that people like me could still drink them and gloat at their reasonableness! I do think there's room for a part two: Leaving out the chenins of Vouvray is like leaving a continent off your travel bucket list.
Jun 14, 2012 at 4:20 PM
Dal Piaz
I see a theme forming here. Part II will be sketched out shortly.
Jun 14, 2012 at 4:26 PM
Expensive, but nice list.
Everybody forget Côte-Rotie, and they are an unforgettable experience.
Jun 14, 2012 at 7:13 PM
Dal Piaz
Thanks! I was gong to include Gentaz, but the wines are now pretty much unobtainable. Ogier might have been my next pick, or Jamet, but that's another wine for a second or third part of this series.
Jun 14, 2012 at 7:46 PM
Wow. No Champagne? I expected to see Salon on this list.
Jun 15, 2012 at 7:34 AM
I can see from this list that you have expensive tastes.I was interested to see a Loire valley red on your list because one does not often come across them.Coincidentally I had a bottle of Saumur-Champigny this weekend which I very much enjoyed but it was a lot cheaper than yours.I have now posted a review for it
Domaine de la Cune Les 3 Jean Saumur-Champigny
Jun 17, 2012 at 2:19 PM
Duncan 906 - This is a bucket list after all, so price/value really isn't the primary consideration, only quality. There are some great values and really fine red wines in the Loire, as there is in most of the regions in France, and what is listed here is a good representation of what one could sample and die happy knowing they had drunk wines that were fine examples of their style and place. These wines also come with well deserved reputations and a long history of excellence, which is another reason why they are are on the bucket list. Such wines with established pedigrees are necessarily more expensive than those who make good wines in good vintages, but can't maintain that level in ordinary or poor years. Certainly, there are many wines that could qualify, but there has to be a limit, and I think GDP has done a pretty good job getting the ball rolling. France is a place where the list could be as long as your arm, or leg, or pick an appendage...
Jun 17, 2012 at 11:54 PM
Guy
Making a Bucket List Napa Valley - Cheers,
Jun 23, 2012 at 12:34 PM
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