During my recent trip to Napa I visited Beringer not only because they are one of the great historic houses of the valley, with production dating back to 1876, but because they continue to offer great products. Beringer is not, however, only about wine; it also serves as an embassy of sorts, one of the welcoming doorways through which wine lovers of all types stride on their way to a better understanding and appreciation of wine, the Napa Valley, and how the two are entwined.
For me the story is relatively simple. I am familiar with the Napa Valley and with Beringer, though there is always something new to learn. Today, that would be the Modern Heritage Collection, a tasting room and website-only line of wines from Beringer that draws on some of the historic vineyards of Napa. And then there is the move into a burgeoning category of Bordeaux blends with the Quantum red blend, which is mostly made with Bordeaux varietals—grapes they know well here—with a small addition of Petite Sirah for that little something special.
But new wines were not the only thing I came to taste. I also wanted to revisit the wonderfully consistent Private Reserve Cabernet, which has proven to be a winner all the way back to 1981, my first vintage with the wine—and one that was still drinking well in 2007 when I finished off my last bottle. The wine I tasted during this visit, the 2009, is still available for under $100 a bottle; it’s a mighty fine wine, and at that price a pretty good deal. So next time you think of Beringer, stop for a moment and remember: a winery this big can afford to make world class wine like this, and can afford to sell it for a fair price.
I’m not demanding you go out and try the wines of Beringer. I’m saying you probably should. Not every wine is great, of course, but at the top there are some mighty attractive wines to be had. It’s easy to dismiss Beringer and other wineries of their ilk, but to do so is to risk missing out, not only on some fun wines, but also on some (literally) valuable perspective: perspective on what a winery can and should be producing, how they can and should be pricing their wines, and last but not least, how they preserve the history of the Napa Valley, something newer wineries often have no interest in doing. If you disagree, please have a glass of perspective. Might I recommend the Private Reserve?
Vanilla cream with toasted nut meat and floral nuances top mocha-inflected, huge, creamy blueberry and black cherry fruit on the imposing, upright and intense fruit-driven nose. There’s plenty of lightly toasty, smoky oak nuance as well, but they sit in the background. This shows impressive pinpoint focus on the palate and is very smooth and opulent without being weighty. There’s a great firmness to this without any tannins poking out of the deep, slightly earth-tinged, creamy dark fruit that shows hints of coffee and tobacco on the palate. The tannins do pop out of the creamy fruit on the back end, along with spice and a little hint of tartness, revealing the firmness of the acid. This is just a seductive wine with super fine depth and exceptional polish. 94 points
Corn silk, almond caramel, dried apricots, dried white cherry and white chocolate drive from the glass topped with an intriguing touch of caper. Rich and downright unctuous on the palate with lovely botrytis spice topping creamy, luxuriously deep apricot fruit. This is packed with botrytis character that leads to a long, spicy finish, ending on a fine bitter apricot pit note. There is a significant amount of VA here, enough to be off-putting to some. But the wine still packs in layers of flavor and impressive richness. 93 points