A Bumpy Road Indeed
Guido Porro - Serralunga
Guido Porro is no longer the secret it once was, and the prices for the wines have increased, though they remain among the greatest bargains in Piedmont. There is no doubt that Guido's wines are rich and frankly fruity, particularly for Serralunga, but his wines are very convincing with a fairly traditional feel to them. The only knock against his wines would be that he is not afraid of alcohol, though I have only rarely felt the wines to be out of balance.
A new name for the base blended Barolo
Tight, sharp, and spicy on the nose with herbal notes framing black cherry in alcohol aromas and just a touch of truffle and dried orange peel working their way in here. This is wide open, on the palate with soft tannins, fine acids, and lovely burnished cherry fruit that shows off woodsy accents and deep rose petals on the lively, rich, firm mid-palate. This finishes with a long, aromatic and bright amarena cherry and floral quality but it certainly doesn't lack alcohol. Nicely done if a bit hot. 89pts
Produced from 40 year old vines with South Eastern exposure in Lazzairasco Cru. 28 days on the skins in 2009, though the minimum is 15 to 18 days vintage dependant. This spends three years in 25 Hl slavonian oak.
Production will go up to 6,000 bottles with new plantings that replaced dolcetto and small additions to the bottom of the vineyard.
This has a very direct nose with an early hint of tobacco, followed by icy mineral notes framed with an herbal nuance. This smells icy cool. On entry this is a little tight if fine and firm with tannins that show an edge of austerity. The mid palate is rich with lovely mineral laced rose petal and bramble framed black cherry fruit, that leads to a finish that is a bit tight and short, but does show some sneaky length,
A second bottle open three days prior was, more open but still tight if spicy with limestone notes and some small wild black raspberry flavors. Broader but still tense in the mouth, it displayed a really nice combination of rich ripe fruit that doesn't cross the line and fine lacy structure, with a modesty minty and medicinal finish.
An aggregate score for the two bottles: 91pts
Produced from 70 year old vines with a south/southwest exposition within the cru, this saw 24 days of skin contact and three months in botte.
More direct on the nose, which is really enticing with a slightly dusty, tea leaf, medicinal, and faintly woodsy aspect to the big prune in alcohol aromas. This is more open on the palate with that little woodsy, note accenting the core of dark cherry and plum fruit. This falls somewhere in the middle of the vintage stylistically with soft tannins, nice depth of fruit, and an excellent open feel, al leading to nice tension on the finish which shows dusty tannins and big licorice aromas,
A second bottle which had been opened ten days prior
Shows some evolution with a spicy, mushroom and camphor framed core of wild macerated raspberry fruit. This really broadens on the palate and sweetness up in the mouth with excellent late arriving depth of herb flecked macerated cherry and plum fruit, finishes with full tannins that are a touch dry,
An aggregate score for the two bottles: 93pts