Barolo 2009

A Bumpy Road Indeed





Josetta Saffirio - Monforte
 
Josetta Saffirio is a winery still finding their way, though it does seem as though they have found a path forward. The wines are very drinkable in a fruity, fairly modern but not oaky nor extracted style. Some may find them to be too fruity and frankly graph but for what they are they are quite attractive and easy to enjoy.
 
 
2000 bottles produced
 
Spicy on the nose and tight with a dusty overtone to the rosepetal and slightly minty wild cherry fruit framed with rose hips and camphor. Soft on entry, then this shows fine acid and lovely, slightly aggressive crisp tannins. The fruit has a bit of black raspberry to it and is very fresh and clear on the palate with just a hint of wood sweetness and oak flavors contributing complexity. Rather classically structured with lovely herb tinged wild cherry fruit on the moderately long finish. Has a nice, expressive core of fruit. 91pts
 
 
10,000 bottles produced
 
Chalky on the nose with an herbal extract note with leathery and slight campfire like accents. A little compact but with excellent depth and a lovely roundness that doesn't obscure the detail here. There's fine acidity and plenty of ripe tannins supporting the slightly medicinal core of wild blackberry and slightly grapy fruit. The finish is short and tight at this point, but this gains fine length with rich fruit and a fine spiced edge all leading up to a finely fruited finale. Excellent for the vintage. 90pts
 
 
2000 bottles produced
 
A little tight, just a touch fudgy with black fruit and some attractive spice notes all wrapped up with sweet rose petals and a touch of chocolate covered orange peel. Silky on entry with soft burnished black cherry fruit that is supported by finely integrated acidity. This peaks early in the mouth and shows a hint of dryness on the midpalate that leads to a bit of a short finish. Very refined and broad on the palate but this lacks some freshness and detail. The finish shows good fruit and significant powerful tannins. There's a little sweetness here that sort of balances the dryness but it's a powerfully built wine that also shows a bit of heat.
 
 
A tight little nose with gamy rose hips, rose petals, and faint red curranty fruit. This is round and immediately red fruited on entry with red cherry and raspberry fruit that shows a soft sweetness and fine strawberry seed spice. Tannins are well managed, present but unobtrusive with juicy acidity and a nice watermelon undertone to the fruitiness. Really fine wild cherry fruit on the moderately long finish that shows a fine medicinal edge. Fruity yet in a fairly classic style with super ripe tannins. 91pts
 
 
This opens with a deep herbal streak on the nose full of  ivy and cactus, followed by an assertive floral note and fine raspberry fruit over sandy soil tones with a hint of wood spice. Showing a little roundness early on the palate, this has slightly more aggressive tannins than the 2009 Barolo Classico from Saffirio, with more savory complexity but less obviously sweet fruit. The finish is long and taut with a deep mineral streak and wild bitter cherry fruit. Another wine that shows abundant ripe tannins supporting savory complexity. 91pts


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  • Snooth User: xotravel
    208625 4

    I would definitely second that emotion that Brovia & Elvio Cogno are unheralded stars of Barolo. I only wish they would stay that way so as to remain reasonably priced for those of us who do not run hedge funds...

    Jun 25, 2013 at 1:50 PM


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