Barolo 2009

A Bumpy Road Indeed



 
Elvio Cogno - Novello
 
The wines of Elvio Cogno have struck me int he past as dependable but these recent releases are on another level. Great traditionally produced wines that combine power and a cool elegance, I found these immensely attractive and worth searching out. 
 
 
15 year old vines 100% Lampia clone, that spend about 30 days on the skins, aged in botte.
 
A lit fleshy on the nose with hints of bologna and nuttiness under some dried peach notes, with smoky, tart red fruit. Soft and broad in the mouth with good acidity providing nice cut to the wild cherry fruit on the palate, which is just a little loose. This might be a little simple but with an attractive combination of power and transparency, with the fruit turning a little black cherried on the backend. The long finish shows nice length with fine slightly dry tannins, and hints of licorice and plum. 90pts
 
 
50 year  old vines, 10,000 bottles produced , thirty five days ferment, then aged in botte
 
Deep on the nose with hints of iron, fennel, a bit of herb, and a bit of wood here as well. Rather compact and cooler than the Cascina Nuova, soft and very approachable in the mouth with nice tannins supporting stony cherry pit fruit that shows nice detail and clarity in the mouth. The tannins here are well managed yet retain a nice touch of austerity lending this lovely depth on the backend with a deep stemmy, herbal incipient mushroom note. This is elegant and refined, in a pure and authentic Monforte style of Barolo. 93pts
 
 
22 year old vines at the top of the cru and 64 year old  vines lower on the slope, in a vineyard that straddles the Monforte/Novello border. Always thirty five days ferment, then aged in  botte
 
A fairly big confiture nose of red and dark fruit with a hint of plumminess that turns a bit smoky, deep,  and soil driven with air showing lots of tobacco and cherry in alcohol, and a little mint. On entry this is  a little chewy and powerful, with an elegance to the tannins, but lots of power, packed  tight with fine grained tannins that supports black licorice and black cherry fruit on the mid palate and through the nice powerful finish. 92pts
 
 
100% Rose clone, which is notoriously scarce in pigment so to help fix color  consistent temps during maceration, are important along with a very slow fermentation, 28C normal, 22C during last days of a 20 days fermentation, with cappello sommerso for 10 to 12 days. 8,000 bottles produced
 
Very pretty if rustic nose rich with strawberry, limestone, rose petals, candied cherry aromas. This starts out a bit hollow on the palate, lacking some height in the mouth with decent acids, and tannins that are a little raw, turning quite assertive on the back end The modest red fruit on the palate show a bit of woodsy character turning a bit tough and a bit compact on the backend which shows nice wild strawberry and lemon zest notes that leads to a moderately finish full of tannin and a bit of heat.  The balance is a little off here. 92pts
 

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  • Snooth User: xotravel
    208625 4

    I would definitely second that emotion that Brovia & Elvio Cogno are unheralded stars of Barolo. I only wish they would stay that way so as to remain reasonably priced for those of us who do not run hedge funds...

    Jun 25, 2013 at 1:50 PM


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