A Bumpy Road Indeed
Luciano Sandrone - Barolo
Long one of the leading modernists, the winemaking of Sandrone has changed little over the years, though the wines do strike me as more elegant and transparent than those produced even just a few years ago.
Lots of prune and dark berry in alcohol on the nose framed with notes of wood spice and a touch of chocolate. This is rich and soft,with good depth of fruit and lots of tannin that turns a bit dry and splintery on the palate. There’s decent acidity supporting a nice jammy core of raspberry, blackberry fruit that finishes a bit tightly and lacks some drive but makes up for it with length of fruit, with a bit of alcohol showing up on the finale. 88pts
Perfumed with aromas of cut red fruit and chalky soil tones over a nice base of oak spice. Air brings out classic roses and cherry in alcohol with a fine white soil tone. This is rich with soft, opulent fruit that remains fresh even though it's quite ripe. While not particularly tannic, there is nice cut to the fruit, and a bit of austerity to help play off the sweetness of the fruit. That cherry fruit lingers on the fairly long finish which is bit spicy with coffee tones and a hint of tar arriving late. Easy, and yet fairly intense. There’s a fair amount of wine here. 91pts
Tight wild berry fruit on the nose shows off a bit of earthiness with fine dried herb notes and soft toasty oak adding detail. Fresh, angular tannins pop on entry followed by lovely tiny cherry fruit, roses, pomegranate, and a little purple fruit on the palate. This shows silky integration with aromatic fruit on the moderately long finish. This is tense and precise with good aromatic freshness, 92pts
Tight and a bit oaky on the nose with a little black cherry framed with some rose notes. This is soft if texturally complete in the mouth silky without being opulent and showing fine cut cherry fruit on the palate, with a late arriving herb and limestone note, This is just a bit austere and dour today,with the wood tannins showing a bit on the finish, which shows a lovely blend of fresh fruit and soil tones. This is tense and elegant, showing classic Cannubi austerity, but the wood is a touch intrusive. 89pts
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