Every year around this time we all begin to trot out our picks for the holidays, beginning of course with Thanksgiving. Riesling is a perennial favorite of wine recommenders everywhere, thinking that A) all Riesling is sweet and B) all thanksgivings meals are leaden and dull and topped with flaming marshmallows and burnt candy.

Now, before you get your panties all in a bunch, I will recognize that Thanksgiving dinners are inherently sweet. Sweet with natural sweetness brought to the table in the form of roasted squash and pumpkin with hints of sweetness from cranberries and apples tucked delicately into stuffings. The days of sugary sweet Thanksgiving repasts are fading quickly into the rearview, replaced with heirloom turkeys and farm to table cuisine.