Burgundy. We’re talking rarified ground, even hallowed ground to some. But there is hope for even the common man when it comes to Burgundy, though admittedly not much. If you’re searching for values in Burgundy, you have three options: so-called off vintages; lesser-known regions, such as Savigny and Mercurey; or négociants.
I recently gave an overview of the value négociants to bring to the table and touched on Domaine Drouhin at that point. Today I am enjoying a mini tasting of another négociants line-up. A tease of 2009 as it were, with 6 half-bottles from the esteemed Maison Louis Jadot. What are these wines telling me about the vintage and more importantly, about the wines? Let’s take a look and see.
The 2009 Burgundy vintage is just hitting the shelves and with much fanfare. This much-anticipated vintage has all the hallmarks of a great vintage, but may in fact have benefitted a bit too much from the weather, making the wines immediately appealing but maybe a bit less profound with time.
August and the end of the growing season was luxuriously warm with sporadic rainfall that helped to refresh the vines when they did arrive. The harvest, like much of the season, was a bit on the early side, with many domaines reporting wonderfully ripe fruit.
It is very early on to be prognosticating about wines that I have little exposure to, so I won’t – except to say that what I have tried has been very attractive, but with a certain immediacy that leads me to believe that these, round, fresh, aromatic wines may mimic their growing season in one respect: early to arrive and early to end, which is not to say that these wines will not be age-worthy, but rather that the seductive nature of these wines will best be enjoyed in relative youth as the ripeness seems to have left many wines with noticeable alcohol, rather soft acidity and gentle tannins.