2009 Burgundy Tasting Notes

Surprising and satisfying results from a recent blind tasting


Here are the results of a small blind tasting of 2009 Burgundy wines that I recently participated in. The wines as a set showed a fair amount of power and richness, though all the wines were remained quite Burgundian. Prices for many of these wines are likely at their near term peaks today as interest is quickly moving to the even more highly acclaimed, though more classically structured 2010s.

Over the short term, you might be seeing many 2009 wines offered on discount, so keep an eye open if these wines sound like they might appeal to you. I expect most 2009 Burgundy wines to remain quite accessible and deliver a lot of satisfaction through the next decade or so.

For more information on the 2009 vintage please read 2009 Burgundy

Photo courtesy feverblue via Flickr/CC

2009 Domaine Grivot Vosne-Romanée $45

My 8th place wine, the group’s 8th

Mean and austere on the nose with some raw oak, mint and light meaty notes. On the palate, this was a touch soft and chewy with some mineral earth notes and herbal nuances. Not much is going on here, though the finish does show some lingering bitter tannins. 85 pts

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2009 Bouchard Caillerets Ancienne Cuvée Carnot 1er Cru Volnay $60

My 7th place wine, the group’s 5th

Shy and a bit spicy on the nose. Slow to emerge smoke, earth and rhubarb notes lend this a less ripe and slight chunky tone. Soft and bright in the mouth, this is rather lacy and pure with red berry fruit. It is a bit on the simple side, but as balanced and fresh as this is, it is attractive. 88 pts

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2009 JF Mugnier Clos de la Marechale 1er Cru Nuits – St. Georges $70

My 6th place wine, the group’s 4th

Nicely aromatic with notes of orange, stem, musk and floral perfumes on the nose. At first this struck me as inelegant and flat in the mouth, but with air, this turned more elegant and refined, never loosing a certain rusticity. There seem to be some excessive dry wood tannins here, but the wine shows potential even though it is a bit opaque on the palate today. 88 pts

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2009 Domaine Fourrier Clos Solon Morey St. Denis $70

My 5th place wine, the group’s 2nd

Meaty and earthy on the nose with fine intensity to the perfumed black fruit, spiced notes and edges of vanillin and shoe leather. This is chiseled in the mouth, though that tension is very appealing. The mid-palate reveals excellent depth of fruit and fine mineral notes, though the tannins tighten up quickly on the finish. This needs time.      89 pts

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2009 Dom H Gouges Clos des Porrets St. Georges 1er cru Nuits St. Georges

My 4th place wine, the group’s 3rd

Very fruity on the nose with sweet, toasty oak notes lending this a bit of a candied black cherry aroma. With air, this does tighten up, showing a bit more raw oak. To a certain extent this smells fairly commercial. The candied fruit of the nose does come across on the palate as well, but this is rich, chunky and well structured, boding well for the future. The long finish is also a sign of things to come, all mineral and black-fruited, but the bit of stickiness I felt left me with some reservations. Is this Gouges today? 89 pts

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2009 Domaine Chandon des Briailles les Vergelesses 1er Cru Pernand Vergelesses

My 3rd place wine, the group’s 6th

Tight and a bit hard at first, the nose here really opens up with air, revealing candied medicinal fruit, sweet tobacco tones and a touch of beefiness. On the palate, this super well balanced with ripe tannins and clean strawberry fruit. The finish is long with some tactile grape skin tannin and a subtle liquor finale. This comes off as simple today but I think it’s just shut down as there are flashes of wonderfully rich and aromatic fruit on the palate. 90 pts

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2009 Simon Bize Les Fourneaux 1er cru Savigny-les-Beaune $50

My 2nd place wine, the group’s 1st

Dusty and closed on the nose with a little spice, a dark, serious, brooding sort of nose. On the palate this is quite tight, but the raw material is there. Black raspberries at times, then some watermelon peel and a flash of stemmy spice. All the components show up, but this needs time to knit together. It’s an intellectual joy tonight with succulence, length, and near perfect balance, but there is a lot more to come. 92 pts

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2009 Domaine Faiveley La Combe aux Moines 1er Cru Gevrey Chambertin $70

My 1st place wine, the group’s 7th

This is sweet and fruity on the nose, but there are intensely sappy underlying notes along with plenty of sweetening wood spice and a nice pretty floral note. Rich and dense with a weighty feel reinforced by the oak here, but plenty of fresh, clean fruit and a nice bit of limestone underpinning it all. The finish shows off nice cherry pit fruit in a big, powerful style but this remains sappy, long and fresh. 92 pts

(Some might say I’m being fooled here by the new oak and modern vinification, but this is a lovely wine and it represents the 2009 vintage very well!)

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