20 New Wines from Burgundy

And the importance of negociants


Slideshow
Top Values from Drouhin



Some of these wines have not yet been released. Prices listed are at full mark-up; when they are released you should be able to find each at a noticeable discount.

2009 Drouhin Vaudon Chablis, $24
Nice apple fruit on the nose is framed by very correct mineral notes that recall flint and steel. In the mouth this is bright and crisp with fairly intense minerality. The lemon pith fruit on the tense mid-palate leads to more of a green apple tone on the moderately long finish. 88pts

2008 Drouhin Chablis Reserve de Vaudon, $30
Dusty and slightly stemmy with a sweet citrus undertone to the lightly baked apple fruit on the nose. Leaner and a bit acid-driven through the palate, which does offer up lovely citrus fruits that are cut with a fine mineral vein that leads to a moderately long finish. This seems to be a wine for today in a very light style. 87pts

2008 Drouhin Vaudon Chablis Premier Cru, $40
Nice and bright on the nose, with a wonderful blend of sweet citrus fruits and green apple aromas gently accented by more exotic notes of fig and pineapple. Wonderfully tense and bright in the mouth with big acids but also a fine core of rich fruit that slowly unwinds with notes of dried citrus rind and green apple, gaining sweetness and intensity on the moderately long finish. This comes off as quite fruit-driven in a way but flashes of steely minerality help to frame the mid-palate and add focus to the wine. This can benefit from some time in the cellar but is a great Chablis for the near term. 91pts

2009 Drouhin Chablis Grand Cru Vaudesir, $75
Very perfumed on the nose with layered notes of flowers, minerals and an ethereal element of rainwater or wet river stones. Distinctly rich on entry and then gaining tension and focus across the palate with excellent precision to the beautifully rendered citrus and light orchard fruits. This is very youthful but also very promising with its laser-like focus and perfumed inner-mouth quality that graces the finish with chalky mineral and polleny floral tones. 92pts

2009 Drouhin Meursault, $50
Reticent at first, with slow-to-emerge notes of almond, honeycomb and a lightly toasty, smoky background night highlighting the deep, sweet fruit on the nose. This is remarkably precise in the mouth and so taut over the palate, like a drawn drum skin. The flavors recall apple skins with a touch of burnt orange peel and drive through the fairly long finish. I would like a bit more depth and complexity but the texture and energy of this wine in the mouth is exciting. 91pts

2009 Drouhin Puligny-Montrachet, $60
Smoky and nutty on the nose with a backdrop of meaty orchard fruits and lemon curd. In the mouth this exhibits fine cut to the fairly rich, intense and fresh green apple and pear fruits in the mouth. A nice surge of minerality on the mid-palate drives the wine to a rather modest finish that exhibits a subtle spice tone on the finale. Well put together, this seems to need a bit more time to fully express itself. 90pts

2009 Drouhin Chassagne Montrachet Blanc, $60

Dusty almond husks, smoke and soil join together on the nose along with some dried orchard fruit elements. Feels quite backward in the mouth with good acids upfront that are fairly rich, but somewhat flat peachy fruit on the mid-palate. The wine has a nice linear feel to it with a growing toastiness on the backend and through the moderately long finish. The piece don’t seem to be coming together perfectly today. 88pts

2009 Drouhin Chassagne Montrachet Morgeots Marquis de Laguiche Premier Cru, $125
Toasty hazelnuts with gently burnt sugar tones lay over intense notes of pressed flowers, honeycomb, vanilla and sweet orchard fruits on the nose. In the mouth this has such an elegant texture and the wine’s finesse belies its richness. The mid-palate is precise with fine mineral cut to the citrus, green plum, and sweet nectarine fruit that have a lightly milky oaky edge to them. The finish shows a nice spicy top note. 92pts

2009 Drouhin Beaune Clos des Mouches Blanc Premier Cru, $125
Nutty and hard on the nose with a strong smoky streak over spicy and floral bitter apple aromas. This is quite rich and powerful on entry with a weighty feel in the mouth and deep flavors of bright, fresh fruits accented by honeyed edges and a firm, polleny floral element that drives the long, succulent finish. Powerful, fresh and balanced, this is performing at a rather high level. 94pts

2009 Drouhin Savigny-les-Beaune Clos des Godeaux, $50
Lovely and bright on the nose with perfumed notes of soil, spice, ivy and crisp raspberry fruit. In the mouth this offers up ripe fruit in a somewhat crunchy style. The acid-driven raspberry fruit is a bit simple though, with nice dusty, mineral edges that pop on the modest finish. Today this delivers more on the nose than on the palate. 87pts

2009 Drouhin Volnay, $50
Floral and lightly musky with wild, red forest fruits that have a lightly tropical top note. Nice ripeness in the mouth, though this retains a fine transparent feel in the mouth with lovely soil-driven flavors of light cherry fruit with spicy tannins adding some depth on the backend. Very attractive in many ways, if a touch simple. 88pts

2009 Drouhin Gevrey-Chambertin, $55
This is displaying gorgeous aromatics with stemmy, sappy floral and forest-floor tones supporting black raspberry and red current fruit. It's both intense and complex but has a certain purity to it. In the mouth this is a bit tight, with a fine austere feel. It's not quite fulfilling the promise of the nose but is very aromatic in the mouth. The cherry skin fruit does emerge with some time and gains subtle savory and spicy elements that fill out on the long, lithe finish. This is a lovely wine showing very well today but given a few years, it should be beautiful. 91pts

2009 Drouhin Chambolle Musigny, $75
Deep and soil-driven on the nose with lightly smoky, musky, spicy red fruits. Downright silky in the mouth with some finely ripened tannins adding richness without any sense of roughness. The flavors of dark red fruits are fairly intense and gain fine aromatic complexity in the mouth with soil and musk tones, but this wine is captivating more for its texture than admittedly lovely flavors. The follow-through here is gorgeous, with succulently ripe fruit delivering a gossamer-textured long finish with gentle strawberry notes on the finale. This can be enjoyed today and over the near term. 91pts

2009 Drouhin Chambolle-Musigny Premier Cru, $100
Tight and finely focused on the nose with deep, rocky red fruits framed with perfumed floral and herb tones. Silken in the mouth with ripe tannins that are a bit more abundant than the village wine, though just as finely polished, keeping this very elegant in the mouth. The acidity is well integrated, lending this a tight, transparent feel that extends through the medium-length finish, where the tannins lend a lightly dusty edge to the black cherry fruit. A bit more about potential today than immediate enjoyment, this seems to have all the elements to blossom with a bit of ageing. 92pts

2009 Drouhin Beaune Clos des Mouches Rouge Premier Cru, $105
This has finely layered aromatics of floral/herbal notes with a touch of wood spice and intense forest-floor tones supporting red berry fruit that has a light nuance of wild blueberry to it. Quite rich in the mouth with fine if present tannins and acidity that might be a touch soft gives this an opulent, velvety mouthfeel. There’s a nice savory clarity on the palate with fruit that recalls red berries with a hint of plumskin. The finish is fairly long with a distinct pop of wood spice and some slightly bitter nuttiness on the finale. Time will help integrate the oak here but this will probably always be a bit too broad in the mouth for me. 90pts

2009 Drouhin Clos de Vougeot Grand Cru, $250
Fairly simple on the nose but intense with a strong violet note, chalky earth tones, and smoky, lightly tobacco-scented notes adding complexity to the dark fruit tones. There’s also a lightly polleny floral top note here.  Bright on the palate with rich, fleshy red fruits that enter with intensity then fold a bit on the mid-palate. The tannins here are well judged but angular at the moment, adding some nice energy in the mouth and adding a layer of spice to the wild cherry fruit. The finish is moderately long with integrated spice notes and a fine mineral edge. An intriguing wine, fairly complete but all the elements have yet to fully integrate. This does have exciting potential. 93pts

2009 Drouhin St. Veran, $19
Big apple-rich nose has a nice spicy edge to it. Fresh in the mouth, true to the nose with plenty of apple fruit, round on the palate and nicely crisp if a bit simple. 86pts

2009 Drouhin Rully, $22
Bright on the nose with an herbal accent to the perfumed citrus fruits. Very aromatic and nicely complex with sweet citrus juice notes and hints of pith and oil. Rich yet precise in the mouth with a lovely ripeness that is finely balanced by excellent tension in the mouth. There’s a great edge of sweet ripeness to the fruit that lends it an almost strawberry-like note that drives the impressively long finish. This is a very attractive wine with a lot going for it at this price. Lovely stuff. 89pts

2007 Drouhin Chorey-les-Beaune, $25
Very open on the nose with jammy yet astringent cranberry fruits and red currant jam. Light in the mouth with a similar jammy edge on the palate, though the fine, bright acids keep this refreshing and transparent. The finish displays some bristly tannin. Pleasant but lacks something. 87pts

2008 Drouhin Pommard, $40
Rich and deep on the nose with a floral top note accenting the wild black cherry skin aromas that are framed with hints of leather and talc. Silky in the mouth with a lovely balsamic edge to the bright black cherry fruit. The tannins are fairly abundant here, lending an astringent undertone to the fruit, literally feels like something that is going to be rough in the mouth but yet isn’t quite. 89pts

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Comments

  • Snooth User: dmcker
    Hand of Snooth
    125836 7,115

    Nice piece, Greg. Snooth needs more of these surveys of Burgundy producers....

    Feb 24, 2011 at 4:33 PM


  • How can I buy anything? I see no instructions?
    Cussler

    desoto@numa.net

    Feb 24, 2011 at 5:06 PM


  • Snooth User: Gregory Dal Piaz
    Hand of Snooth Voice of Snooth
    89065 204,383

    Thanks DM, just something that inspired me last week. Would like to do more in-depth articles on producers but I don't have the time. I was hoping this would be a nice way to frame a list of tasting notes.

    If you want more information on any of these wines, and links to stores that are selling them simply click on the green link, names of each wine.

    Feb 24, 2011 at 5:16 PM


  • Snooth User: Bobby Boy
    219559 22

    Great summary of the multiple issues at play in Burgundy.
    Also good tasting notes on the current Drouhin range.

    Feb 24, 2011 at 8:24 PM


  • Snooth User: dmcker
    Hand of Snooth
    125836 7,115

    Jadot up next?

    Feb 24, 2011 at 10:03 PM


  • Snooth User: kristomas
    581733 10

    Great, comments... Wines have been seen at Waitrose, clos des mouches, rully, per example... J&B, Berrys, do sell some ... even saw Chablis at Oddbins... went to le Gavroche and they do an extensive range of drouhin, 99 clos vougeot....exceptional with the food of Michel Roux...

    Feb 25, 2011 at 8:52 AM


  • Snooth User: Beller
    352054 1

    I was just in Burgundy and it was a short but amazing trip. While the wine was wonderful the food was out of this world. Thanks for the article about this beautiful region.

    Feb 25, 2011 at 1:01 PM


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